XI A MIDDLE-WESTERN MIRACLE 139 XII FIELD'S AND THE "TRIBUNE" 150 XIII THE STOCKYARDS 164 XIV THE HONORABLE HINKY DINK 173 XV AN OLYMPIAN PLAN 181 XVI LOOKING BACKWARD 187 "IN MIZZOURA" XVII SOMNOLENT ST. LOUIS 201 XVIII THE FINER SIDE 221 XIX HANNIBAL AND MARK TWAIN 237 XX PIKE AND POKER 253 XXI OLD RIVER DAYS 267 THE BEGINNING OF THE WEST XXII KANSAS CITY 275 XXIII ODDS AND ENDS 291 XXIV COLONEL NELSON'S "STAR" 302 XXV KEEPING A PROMISE 313 XXVI THE TAME LION 323 XXVII KANSAS JOURNALISM 337 XXVIII A COLLEGE TOWN 345 XXIX MONOTONY 365 THE MOUNTAINS AND THE COAST XXX UNDER PIKE'S PEAK 379 XXXI HITTING A HIGH SPOT 400 XXXII COLORADO SPRINGS 417 XXXIII CRIPPLE CREEK 434 XXXIV THE MORMON CAPITAL 439 XXXV THE SMITHS 454 XXXVI PASSING PICTURES 465 XXXVII SAN FRANCISCO 474 XXXVIII "BEFORE THE FIRE" 488 XXXIX AN EXPOSITION AND A "BOOSTER" 498 XL NEW YORK AGAIN 507 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS The St. Francis at tea-time.--With her hotels San Francisco is New York, but with her people she is San Francisco--which comes near being FACING the apotheosis of praise. _Frontispiece_ PAGE I was moving about my room, my hands full of hairbrushes and toothbrushes and clothes brushes and shaving brushes; my head full of railroad trains, and hills, and plains, and valleys 5 A dusky redcap took my baggage 12 What scenes these black, pathetic people had passed through--were passing through! Why did they not look up in wonderment? 17 We made believe we wanted to go out and smoke. And as we left our seats she made believe she didn't know that we were going. 23 The gentleman who favored linen mesh was a fat, prosperous-looking person, whose gold-rimmed spectacles reflected flying lights from out of doors 26 In a few hours there was enough shame around us to have lasted all the reformers and muckrakers I know a whole month 32