As I stood there, studying the temperament of pigs, I saw the butcher looking up at me.... I have never seen such eyes 192 The bold front of Michigan Avenue along Grant Park ... great buildings wreathed in whirling smoke and that allegory of infinity which confronts one who looks eastward 196 The dilapidation of the quarter has continued steadily from Dickens's day to this, and the beauty now to be discovered there is that of decay and ruin 205 The three used bridges which cross the Mississippi River at St. Louis are privately controlled toll bridges 212 The skins are handled in the raw state ... with the result that the floor of the exchange is made slippery by animal fats, and that the olfactory organs encounter smells not to be matched in any zoo 221 St. Louis needs to be taken by the hand and led around to some municipal-improvement tailor, some civic haberdasher 225 We came upon the "Mark Twain House."... And to think that, wretched as this place was, the Clemens family were forced to leave it for a time because they were too poor to live there 240 At one side is an alley running back to the house of Huckleberry Finn, and in that alley stood the historic fence which young Sam Clemens cajoled the other boys into whitewashing for him 244 Never outside of Brittany and Normandy have I seen roads so full of animals as those of Pike County 253 Mr. Roberts is a wonder--nothing less. There's a book in him, and I hope that somebody will write it, for I should like to read that book 268 Looking down from Kersey Coates Drive, one sees ... the appalling web of railroad tracks, crammed with freight cars, which seen through a softening haze of smoke, resemble a relief map--strange, vast and pictorial 289 Colonel Nelson is a "character." Even if he didn't own the "Star," ... he would be a "character."... I have called him a volcano; he is more like one than any other man I have ever met 304 Mr. Fish informed me that the waters of Excelsior Springs resemble the waters of Homburg, the favorite watering place of the late King Edward--or, rather, I think he put it the other way round 322 We strolled in the direction of the old house, that house of tragedy in which the family lived in the troublous times.... It was there that the Pinkertons threw the bomb 328