Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
we afterwards met them, living like grand seignors on their broad and
baronial acres. Ranches leagues in extent, and maintaining thousands
of cattle and sheep, are still common in California, and some of the
best of these belong to ex-army officers. Their owners, however, do
but little in the way of pure farming, and are always ready to give a
quarter section or so to any stray emigrant, who will settle down and
cultivate it--especially to old comrades.
The great feature of San Francisco, of course, is her peerless bay. Yet
noble as it is for purposes of commerce, it avails little for pleasure
excursions; and 'Frisco, indeed, might be better off in this respect. A
trip to Oakland is sometimes quite enjoyable, and the ride by railroad
down the peninsula, skirting the bay, to San Josè, is always a delight.
But the bay itself is fickle and morose in winter, and in summer must
be raw and gusty. The suck of wind, from the Pacific into the interior,
through the Golden Gate, as through a funnel, always keeps the bay more
or less in a turmoil; and during the time we were there, it seemed
quite neglected, except for business purposes. One day, in the middle
of January, however, we had duties that took us to Alcatraz and Angel
Island, and essayed the trip thither in a little sloop. On leaving the
_Occidental_, the sky was overcast, and we had the usual drizzle of
that winter; but before we reached Meigg's Wharf, it had thickened into
a pouring rain, and as we crossed to Alcatraz squalls were churning
the outer bay into foam in all directions. After an hour or two there,
on that rocky fortress, the key of San Francisco, with the wind and
rain dashing fitfully about us, we took advantage of a temporary lull
to re-embark for Angel Island. We had hardly got off, however, before
squall after squall came charging down upon us; and as we beat up the
little strait between Angel Island and Socelito, the sloop careening
and the waves breaking over us, it seemed at times as if we were in a
fair way of going to the bottom. Just as we rounded the rocky point
of the Island, before reaching the landing, a squall of unusual force
struck us athwart the bows, wave after wave leaped aboard, and for
awhile our gallant little craft quivered in the blast like a spent
race-horse, as she struggled onward. An abrupt lee shore was on one
side, the squall howling on the other; but we faced it out, and in a
lull, that soon followed, shot by the landing (it being too rough to
halt there), and weathering the next point dropped anchor in a little
cove behind it, just in time to escape another squall even fiercer
than the former. Had we been off either point, or out in the bay, when
this last one struck us, no doubt we would have gone ashore or to Davy
Jones' locker; and altogether, as our Captain said, it was a "nasty,
dirty day," even for San Francisco. Returning, we had skies less
treacherous and a smoother run; but were glad to reach the grateful
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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