Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
welcome and spacious halls of the _Occidental_, best of hotels, again.
It may be, that the bay was a little ruder that day, than usual; but
it bears a bad name for sudden gusts and squalls, and San Franciscans
give it a wide berth generally. Sometimes, in summer, it is afflicted
by calms as well as squalls; we heard some amusing stories of parties
becalmed there until late at night, unable to reach either shore; so
that, altogether, however useful otherwise, it can hardly be regarded
as adding much _per se_ to the pleasures of a life in 'Frisco.
As an offset to this, however, all orthodox San Franciscans, swear by
the Cliff-House and the sea-lions. To "go to the Cliff," is the right
thing to do in San Francisco, and _not_ to go to the Cliff-House is
not to see or know California. In the summer, people drive there in
the early morning, to breakfast and return before the sea-breeze
rises, and then hundreds of gay equipages throng the well-kept road.
Even in winter, at the right hour, you are always sure to meet many
driving out or in. Of course, we went to the "Cliff"--wouldn't have
missed going there for anything. Past Lone Mountain Cemetery, that
picturesque city of the dead, the fine graveled road strikes straight
through the sand-hills, for five or six miles, to the Pacific; and
when you reach the overhanging bluff, on which the hotel perches like
an eagle's nest, you have a grand view of the Golden Gate and the
far-stretching sea beyond. On the very verge of the horizon hang the
Farallones, pointing the way to Japan and China, and the white sails
of vessels beating in or out the harbor dot the ocean far and near.
Just in front of the hotel are several groups of high shelving rocks,
among which the ocean moans and dashes ceaselessly, and here the
seals or "sea-lions," as 'Frisco lovingly calls them, have a favorite
rendezvous and home. The day we were there, there appeared to be a
hundred or more of them, large and small, swimming about the rocks
or clambering over them, while pelicans and gulls kept them company.
Some were small, not larger than a half-grown sturgeon, while others
again were huge unwieldy monsters, not unlike legless oxen, weighing
perhaps a thousand pounds or more. "Ben Butler" was an immense,
overgrown creature, as selfish and saucy, apparently, as he could
well be; and another, called "Gen. Grant," was not much better. They
kicked and cuffed the rest overboard quite indiscriminately, though
now and then they were compelled to take a plunge themselves. Many
contented themselves with merely gamboling around the water's edge;
but others had somehow managed slimily to roll and climb forty or
fifty feet up the rocks, and there lay sunning themselves in supreme
felicity, like veteran politicians snug in office. Sometimes two or
three would get to wrangling about the same position, as if one part
of the rocks were softer than another, and then they would bark and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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