Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
South of Tucson, some ten miles, on the road to Tubac and Mexico, on
the banks of the Santa Cruz still, is the famous church of San Xavier
Del Bac, a venerable relic of the former Spanish rule in Arizona. The
road thither leads through dense mesquite and palo verde bottoms,
with water enough in the Santa Cruz to irrigate them all; but, as
yet, they were unbroken by the husbandman. The church itself seems
to have been built about a hundred years ago, and, though abandoned,
is still in a good state of preservation. It is not of adobe, but of
large, red, kiln-burnt brick, rough-coated with a yellowish cement,
that seems well-nigh indestructible. It is cruciform in style,
with thick and solid walls, and its antique front and towers have
originally been profusely decorated with saints, angels, griffins,
etc., in niche or bas-relief, though many of these are now mutilated
or destroyed. Inside it is handsomely frescoed, and was no doubt
once rich in paintings, ornaments, relics, etc., though these have
now mostly disappeared. Its roof seems to be a sort of asphaltum or
concrete, and appears as tight and firm, as when first laid. In one
of the towers, there is still a fine chime of bells, that came no
doubt originally from Castile or Arragon. The age of this church
is variously reported, but from a cursory examination it appeared
to have been erected about the year 1797, although we were shown a
mutilated register of marriages, births, deaths, etc., that began in
1752. This last, however, seemed to antedate the church, as if it had
been in use by the Spanish settlement here in early times, before
they were able to achieve such an edifice. This church was no doubt a
link in the chain of Spanish Missions, that the Jesuits a century or
more ago established, from the City of Mexico to Northern California,
and was abandoned like the rest of them, with the subsequent collapse
of their priestly power. No doubt, in its time, it was the centre of
a considerable community there; but now, only a squalid village of
Papago Indians crouches at its feet, who regard the aged structure
with a superstitious reverence, and will not permit its fine chime of
bells to be removed to Tucson, for fear of Our Lady's displeasure.
The padre at Tucson comes down and says mass occasionally, and
baptizes their young children; but he cannot cajole them out of
their bells, and doubtless they would fight, rather than lose
them. Altogether, this church is now the best and oldest civilized
structure to be found in Arizona. Very slight repairs would fit it
for occupancy and worship again; but, unfortunately, there are no
inhabitants there now to occupy and worship in it, except the Papagos
aforesaid--and as specimens of good clean Christians, they don't
amount to much now-a-days, whatever they were once.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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