Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
_Thursday_.—I suppose there must be a cycle in the fatigue of travelling,
for when I awoke next morning, I was entirely renewed in spirits and ate
a hearty breakfast of porridge, with sweet milk, and coffee and hot
cakes, at Burlington upon the Mississippi. Another long day’s ride
followed, with but one feature worthy of remark. At a place called
Creston, a drunken man got in. He was aggressively friendly, but,
according to English notions, not at all unpresentable upon a train. For
one stage he eluded the notice of the officials; but just as we were
beginning to move out of the next station, Cromwell by name, by came the
conductor. There was a word or two of talk; and then the official had
the man by the shoulders, twitched him from his seat, marched him through
the car, and sent him flying on to the track. It was done in three
motions, as exact as a piece of drill. The train was still moving
slowly, although beginning to mend her pace, and the drunkard got his
feet without a fall. He carried a red bundle, though not so red as his
cheeks; and he shook this menacingly in the air with one hand, while the
other stole behind him to the region of the kidneys. It was the first
indication that I had come among revolvers, and I observed it with some
emotion. The conductor stood on the steps with one hand on his hip,
looking back at him; and perhaps this attitude imposed upon the creature,
for he turned without further ado, and went off staggering along the
track towards Cromwell followed by a peal of laughter from the cars.
They were speaking English all about me, but I knew I was in a foreign
land.
Twenty minutes before nine that night, we were deposited at the Pacific
Transfer Station near Council Bluffs, on the eastern bank of the Missouri
river. Here we were to stay the night at a kind of caravanserai, set
apart for emigrants. But I gave way to a thirst for luxury, separated
myself from my companions, and marched with my effects into the Union
Pacific Hotel. A white clerk and a coloured gentleman whom, in my plain
European way, I should call the boots, were installed behind a counter
like bank tellers. They took my name, assigned me a number, and
proceeded to deal with my packages. And here came the tug of war. I
wished to give up my packages into safe keeping; but I did not wish to go
to bed. And this, it appeared, was impossible in an American hotel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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