Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays — John Shaqi
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
All this while I had been travelling by mixed trains, where I might meet
with Dutch widows and little German gentry fresh from table. I had been
but a latent emigrant; now I was to be branded once more, and put apart
with my fellows. It was about two in the afternoon of Friday that I
found myself in front of the Emigrant House, with more than a hundred
others, to be sorted and boxed for the journey. A white-haired official,
with a stick under one arm, and a list in the other hand, stood apart in
front of us, and called name after name in the tone of a command. At
each name you would see a family gather up its brats and bundles and run
for the hindmost of the three cars that stood awaiting us, and I soon
concluded that this was to be set apart for the women and children. The
second or central car, it turned out, was devoted to men travelling
alone, and the third to the Chinese. The official was easily moved to
anger at the least delay; but the emigrants were both quick at answering
their names, and speedy in getting themselves and their effects on board.
The families once housed, we men carried the second car without ceremony
by simultaneous assault. I suppose the reader has some notion of an
American railroad-car, that long, narrow wooden box, like a flat-roofed
Noah’s ark, with a stove and a convenience, one at either end, a passage
down the middle, and transverse benches upon either hand. Those destined
for emigrants on the Union Pacific are only remarkable for their extreme
plainness, nothing but wood entering in any part into their constitution,
and for the usual inefficacy of the lamps, which often went out and shed
but a dying glimmer even while they burned. The benches are too short
for anything but a young child. Where there is scarce elbow-room for two
to sit, there will not be space enough for one to lie. Hence the
company, or rather, as it appears from certain bills about the Transfer
Station, the company’s servants, have conceived a plan for the better
accommodation of travellers. They prevail on every two to chum together.
To each of the chums they sell a board and three square cushions stuffed
with straw, and covered with thin cotton. The benches can be made to
face each other in pairs, for the backs are reversible. On the approach
of night the boards are laid from bench to bench, making a couch wide
enough for two, and long enough for a man of the middle height; and the
chums lie down side by side upon the cushions with the head to the
conductor’s van and the feet to the engine. When the train is full, of
course this plan is impossible, for there must not be more than one to
every bench, neither can it be carried out unless the chums agree. It
was to bring about this last condition that our white-haired official now
bestirred himself. He made a most active master of ceremonies,
introducing likely couples, and even guaranteeing the amiability and
honesty of each.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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