Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
And yet when day came, it was to shine upon the same broken and unsightly
quarter of the world. Mile upon mile, and not a tree, a bird, or a
river. Only down the long, sterile cañons, the train shot hooting and
awoke the resting echo. That train was the one piece of life in all the
deadly land; it was the one actor, the one spectacle fit to be observed
in this paralysis of man and nature. And when I think how the railroad
has been pushed through this unwatered wilderness and haunt of savage
tribes, and now will bear an emigrant for some £12 from the Atlantic to
the Golden Gates; how at each stage of the construction, roaring,
impromptu cities, full of gold and lust and death, sprang up and then
died away again, and are now but wayside stations in the desert; how in
these uncouth places pig-tailed Chinese pirates worked side by side with
border ruffians and broken men from Europe, talking together in a mixed
dialect, mostly oaths, gambling, drinking, quarrelling and murdering like
wolves; how the plumed hereditary lord of all America heard, in this last
fastness, the scream of the “bad medicine waggon” charioting his foes;
and then when I go on to remember that all this epical turmoil was
conducted by gentlemen in frock coats, and with a view to nothing more
extraordinary than a fortune and a subsequent visit to Paris, it seems to
me, I own, as if this railway were the one typical achievement of the age
in which we live, as if it brought together into one plot all the ends of
the world and all the degrees of social rank, and offered to some great
writer the busiest, the most extended, and the most varied subject for an
enduring literary work. If it be romance, if it be contrast, if it be
heroism that we require, what was Troy town to this? But, alas! it is
not these things that are necessary—it is only Homer.
Here also we are grateful to the train, as to some god who conducts us
swiftly through these shades and by so many hidden perils. Thirst,
hunger, the sleight and ferocity of Indians are all no more feared, so
lightly do we skim these horrible lands; as the gull, who wings safely
through the hurricane and past the shark. Yet we should not be forgetful
of these hardships of the past; and to keep the balance true, since I
have complained of the trifling discomforts of my journey, perhaps more
than was enough, let me add an original document. It was not written by
Homer, but by a boy of eleven, long since dead, and is dated only twenty
years ago. I shall punctuate, to make things clearer, but not change the
spelling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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