Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
I have an interest of my own in these forest fires, for I came so near to
lynching on one occasion, that a braver man might have retained a thrill
from the experience. I wished to be certain whether it was the moss,
that quaint funereal ornament of Californian forests, which blazed up so
rapidly when the flame first touched the tree. I suppose I must have
been under the influence of Satan, for instead of plucking off a piece
for my experiment what should I do but walk up to a great pine-tree in a
portion of the wood which had escaped so much as scorching, strike a
match, and apply the flame gingerly to one of the tassels. The tree went
off simply like a rocket; in three seconds it was a roaring pillar of
fire. Close by I could hear the shouts of those who were at work
combating the original conflagration. I could see the waggon that had
brought them tied to a live oak in a piece of open; I could even catch
the flash of an axe as it swung up through the underwood into the
sunlight. Had any one observed the result of my experiment my neck was
literally not worth a pinch of snuff; after a few minutes of passionate
expostulation I should have been run up to convenient bough.
To die for faction is a common evil;
But to be hanged for nonsense is the devil.
I have run repeatedly, but never as I ran that day. At night I went out
of town, and there was my own particular fire, quite distinct from the
other, and burning as I thought with even greater vigour.
But it is the Pacific that exercises the most direct and obvious power
upon the climate. At sunset, for months together, vast, wet, melancholy
fogs arise and come shoreward from the ocean. From the hill-top above
Monterey the scene is often noble, although it is always sad. The upper
air is still bright with sunlight; a glow still rests upon the Gabelano
Peak; but the fogs are in possession of the lower levels; they crawl in
scarves among the sandhills; they float, a little higher, in clouds of a
gigantic size and often of a wild configuration; to the south, where they
have struck the seaward shoulder of the mountains of Santa Lucia, they
double back and spire up skyward like smoke. Where their shadow touches,
colour dies out of the world. The air grows chill and deadly as they
advance. The trade-wind freshens, the trees begin to sigh, and all the
windmills in Monterey are whirling and creaking and filling their
cisterns with the brackish water of the sands. It takes but a little
while till the invasion is complete. The sea, in its lighter order, has
submerged the earth. Monterey is curtained in for the night in thick,
wet, salt, and frigid clouds, so to remain till day returns; and before
the sun’s rays they slowly disperse and retreat in broken squadrons to
the bosom of the sea. And yet often when the fog is thickest and most
chill, a few steps out of the town and up the slope, the night will be
dry and warm and full of inland perfume.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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