Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The Arethusa was unwisely dressed. He is no precisian in attire; but by
all accounts, he was never so ill-inspired as on that tramp; having set
forth indeed, upon a moment’s notice, from the most unfashionable spot in
Europe, Barbizon. On his head he wore a smoking-cap of Indian work, the
gold lace pitifully frayed and tarnished. A flannel shirt of an
agreeable dark hue, which the satirical called black; a light tweed coat
made by a good English tailor; ready-made cheap linen trousers and
leathern gaiters completed his array. In person, he is exceptionally
lean; and his face is not, like those of happier mortals, a certificate.
For years he could not pass a frontier or visit a bank without suspicion;
the police everywhere, but in his native city, looked askance upon him;
and (though I am sure it will not be credited) he is actually denied
admittance to the casino of Monte Carlo. If you will imagine him,
dressed as above, stooping under his knapsack, walking nearly five miles
an hour with the folds of the ready-made trousers fluttering about his
spindle shanks, and still looking eagerly round him as if in terror of
pursuit—the figure, when realised, is far from reassuring. When Villon
journeyed (perhaps by the same pleasant valley) to his exile at
Roussillon, I wonder if he had not something of the same appearance.
Something of the same preoccupation he had beyond a doubt, for he too
must have tinkered verses as he walked, with more success than his
successor. And if he had anything like the same inspiring weather, the
same nights of uproar, men in armour rolling and resounding down the
stairs of heaven, the rain hissing on the village streets, the wild
bull’s-eye of the storm flashing all night long into the bare
inn-chamber—the same sweet return of day, the same unfathomable blue of
noon, the same high-coloured, halcyon eves—and above all, if he had
anything like as good a comrade, anything like as keen a relish for what
he saw, and what he ate, and the rivers that he bathed in, and the
rubbish that he wrote, I would exchange estates to-day with the poor
exile, and count myself a gainer.
But there was another point of similarity between the two journeys, for
which the Arethusa was to pay dear: both were gone upon in days of
incomplete security. It was not long after the Franco-Prussian war.
Swiftly as men forget, that country-side was still alive with tales of
uhlans, and outlying sentries, and hairbreadth ’scapes from the
ignominious cord, and pleasant momentary friendships between invader and
invaded. A year, at the most two years later, you might have tramped all
that country over and not heard one anecdote. And a year or two later,
you would—if you were a rather ill-looking young man in nondescript
array—have gone your rounds in greater safety; for along with more
interesting matter, the Prussian spy would have somewhat faded from men’s
imaginations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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