Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
knowledge; but he fell upon his knees in the midst of the bridge like a
man praying. On the rest of the journey to the manse, history is silent;
but when they came to the door, the poor caitiff, taking the lantern from
the child, looked upon her with so lost a countenance that her little
courage died within her, and she fled home screaming to her parents. Not
a soul would venture out; all that night, the minister dwelt alone with
his terrors in the manse; and when the day dawned, and men made bold to
go about the streets, they found the devil had come indeed for Mr.
Thomson.
This manse of Anstruther Easter has another and a more cheerful
association. It was early in the morning, about a century before the
days of Mr. Thomson, that his predecessor was called out of bed to
welcome a Grandee of Spain, the Duke of Medina Sidonia, just landed in
the harbour underneath. But sure there was never seen a more decayed
grandee; sure there was never a duke welcomed from a stranger place of
exile. Half-way between Orkney and Shetland, there lies a certain isle;
on the one hand the Atlantic, on the other the North Sea, bombard its
pillared cliffs; sore-eyed, short-living, inbred fishers and their
families herd in its few huts; in the graveyard pieces of wreck-wood
stand for monuments; there is nowhere a more inhospitable spot.
_Belle-Isle-en-Mer_—Fair-Isle-at-Sea—that is a name that has always rung
in my mind’s ear like music; but the only “Fair Isle” on which I ever set
my foot, was this unhomely, rugged turret-top of submarine sierras.
Here, when his ship was broken, my lord Duke joyfully got ashore; here
for long months he and certain of his men were harboured; and it was from
this durance that he landed at last to be welcomed (as well as such a
papist deserved, no doubt) by the godly incumbent of Anstruther Easter;
and after the Fair Isle, what a fine city must that have appeared! and
after the island diet, what a hospitable spot the minister’s table! And
yet he must have lived on friendly terms with his outlandish hosts. For
to this day there still survives a relic of the long winter evenings when
the sailors of the great Armada crouched about the hearths of the
Fair-Islanders, the planks of their own lost galleon perhaps lighting up
the scene, and the gale and the surf that beat about the coast
contributing their melancholy voices. All the folk of the north isles
are great artificers of knitting: the Fair-Islanders alone dye their
fabrics in the Spanish manner. To this day, gloves and nightcaps,
innocently decorated, may be seen for sale in the Shetland warehouse at
Edinburgh, or on the Fair Isle itself in the catechist’s house; and to
this day, they tell the story of the Duke of Medina Sidonia’s adventure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account