Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The triple town of Anstruther Wester, Anstruther Easter, and Cellardyke,
all three Royal Burghs—or two Royal Burghs and a less distinguished
suburb, I forget which—lies continuously along the seaside, and boasts of
either two or three separate parish churches, and either two or three
separate harbours. These ambiguities are painful; but the fact is
(although it argue me uncultured), I am but poorly posted upon
Cellardyke. My business lay in the two Anstruthers. A tricklet of a
stream divides them, spanned by a bridge; and over the bridge at the time
of my knowledge, the celebrated Shell House stood outpost on the west.
This had been the residence of an agreeable eccentric; during his fond
tenancy, he had illustrated the outer walls, as high (if I remember
rightly) as the roof, with elaborate patterns and pictures, and snatches
of verse in the vein of _exegi monumentum_; shells and pebbles, artfully
contrasted and conjoined, had been his medium; and I like to think of him
standing back upon the bridge, when all was finished, drinking in the
general effect and (like Gibbon) already lamenting his employment.
The same bridge saw another sight in the seventeenth century. Mr.
Thomson, the “curat” of Anstruther Easter, was a man highly obnoxious to
the devout: in the first place, because he was a “curat”; in the second
place, because he was a person of irregular and scandalous life; and in
the third place, because he was generally suspected of dealings with the
Enemy of Man. These three disqualifications, in the popular literature
of the time, go hand in hand; but the end of Mr. Thomson was a thing
quite by itself, and in the proper phrase, a manifest judgment. He had
been at a friend’s house in Anstruther Wester, where (and elsewhere, I
suspect) he had partaken of the bottle; indeed, to put the thing in our
cold modern way, the reverend gentleman was on the brink of _delirium
tremens_. It was a dark night, it seems; a little lassie came carrying a
lantern to fetch the curate home; and away they went down the street of
Anstruther Wester, the lantern swinging a bit in the child’s hand, the
barred lustre tossing up and down along the front of slumbering houses,
and Mr. Thomson not altogether steady on his legs nor (to all appearance)
easy in his mind. The pair had reached the middle of the bridge when (as
I conceive the scene) the poor tippler started in some baseless fear and
looked behind him; the child, already shaken by the minister’s strange
behaviour, started also; in so doing, she would jerk the lantern; and for
the space of a moment the lights and the shadows would be all confounded.
Then it was that to the unhinged toper and the twittering child, a huge
bulk of blackness seemed to sweep down, to pass them close by as they
stood upon the bridge, and to vanish on the farther side in the general
darkness of the night. “Plainly the devil come for Mr. Thomson!” thought
the child. What Mr. Thomson thought himself, we have no ground of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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