John Keast Lord--Across the Columbian Coast range--Disadvantage of an escort--Lord's best weapon of defence--"Held up" by Indians--Between danger and safety--The assailants become guides--Suspicions on both sides--A night at the Indian camp--The Canadian's discovery--Lord on his mettle--The escape--Indian notion of keeping an oath--Signalling--The gorge--The ambush--The truth 277 CHAPTER XXIII TWO DAYS IN A MOHAWK VILLAGE Johann Georg Kohl--The Quebec Mohawks--The Indian village--Some of the villagers--Lodgings--The chief--His recollections and his house--His sons--Supper--The evening chat--Kohl a _persona grata_--A morning in the forest--Lynx traps--"Scratching the Russian"--The black bear--Native sport--Old and new customs--A betrothal.... 289 CHAPTER XXIV CANADIAN LAKE AND RIVER INDIANS The Athapascan family--The Chippewyans--Rev. C. Colton--From New York to the Saskatchewan--A curious demonstration--Making ready for the Chippewyans--The steam-launch aground--Surrounded by the canoes--"Sturgeons!"--Making the Indians pay the piper--The Lake of the Woods--The Indian fur-traders' camp--Bargaining--Chippewyan "lodges"--Start of the canoe flotilla--Experiments--The strange river--Too late to turn--Rapids--An awful fate ahead--The canoemen's presence of mind--A way of escape--Scaling the cañon--Towing 302 CHAPTER XXV A WALK ABOUT URUGUAY Indians of Uruguay--Thomas Woodbine Hinchcliff--A solitary walk--The mountain-forest--Lost--A very remarkable bull--Sudden appearance of Indian cattle-hunters--Lassoing--Breakfast with the Indians--Riding, under difficulties--A critical moment--Strange method of persuading a horse--Thirst--Help in sight, but running away--The Indian fellow-traveller--A surprise--Sticking up for the Indian--What the vice-consul had to say 316 CHAPTER XXVI THE EXPLORATION OF THE SALADO VALLEY Thomas Hutchinson, F.R.S.--In Santa Fé--A fortunate meeting--The steam-launch--Up the Salado--The Gaucho farmstead--The Quiteño guide--His luggage--Warnings--Visit from the "man-eaters"--The parley from the boat--Feeding the savages--Their terror at sight of smoke--Fear of the Quiteño--Men who have sunk to monkey level--Fish-bone spears--A very indiscreet question--Getting rid of the savages--Other Indians--Ostrich-hunting--The Quiteño's contempt for the ox-waggon, and its remedy 328 CHAPTER XXVII BUSINESS AND PLEASURE ON THE LLANOS