Situated upon the margin of the bay, stood the residence of the Grand
Bailiff. It was a large and imposing edifice, and, though not a perfect
model of architecture, presented a very fair example of the ancient
Roman blended with the modern Italian style. Designed by the old
architect, Giacomo della Porta, the villa occupied the site of the
ancient castle of St. Hugo; which had withstood many a fierce assault
during the wars with the Norman kings of Sicily, the Saracens and other
invaders: it had also been the scene of a cruel act of bloodshed, during
the revolt of Campanella the Dominican. The castle suffered so much
from the earthquake of 1560, that the then Visconte demolished the
ruins, and engrafted upon them the more modern Italian villa, which I
was now approaching. A large round-tower of dark red brick-work, with
ponderous crenelated battlements, reared its time-worn front above the
erection of the sixteenth century. It was a fragment of the ancient
Castello di Santugo, and its superstructure rose on the foundations of a
Grecian, Roman, or Gothic fortress, of unknown name and antiquity. From
its summit the standard of Naples waved heavily in the light evening
wind.
A rustic lodge and gate gave entrance to an avenue, that wound with
snake-like turnings through the verdant grounds, embosomed among groves
of orange and olive trees. Above these rose the old tower and the
modern minarets with gilded vanes; while the heavy balustraded terraces
and projecting cornices of the villa were seen at intervals, standing
forward in bold relief or sunk in deep shadow, as the evening sun, now
sinking into the Mediterranean, shed bright gleams of gold and purple
upon its broken masses. A part of the edifice projected from the rocks,
and supported upon arches, overhung the sea. The chambers in that damp
quarter of the mansion were fitted up in the style of marine grottos;
with mosaic-work, shells, marble, and many-coloured crystals,
interspersed with fountains, where groups of water-gods spouted forth
ample streams from conches and horns of bronze. These grottos afford a
cool and silent retreat during the heat of the day, and a magnificent
scene for an entertainment, or a ball _al fresco_, when illuminated by
night.
The avenue, which was bordered on each side by statues of heathen
deities, antique marble vases filled with flowers, and carved fragments
of ancient temples, led to the portico; where a range of lofty
Corinthian columns supported a pediment, ornamented with the arms of the
noble house of Alfieri, collared with three orders of Italian
knighthood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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