Afghanistan; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Central Asia)
Certain features encountered in Merv--such as groups of chaffering
natives, clusters of small, open shops, dusty trees, open drains and
sweltering heat--are strangely reminiscent of India, but the absence
of punkahs and the high price of ice prove that the Russians in Central
Asia are indifferent to comfort. Even the hotels make no attempt
to relieve the effect of the temperature; while, in general, the
houses are built without verandahs and the windows are unfitted with
_jalousies_. Within the houses, too, conditions are most trying, the
policy of every one being to admit the flies and exclude the air. Trade
manages to thrive; and a weekly market is held on Mondays upon a plain
to the east of the town. Thither all roads converge; thronged with
two-wheeled Persian carts, ill-fed baggage horses burdened with goods,
and gurgling camels. Standing solitary and forlorn is the patient ass
whose lament is so eloquently described by Mr. Shoemaker, where that
author says:
Oh, my brother from that far western land where even
a little ass like me has some chance to sleep in quiet,
blame me not, I beseech you, that I weep. You have seen
how dignified and self-contained my brethren are in Egypt;
but there we never carry more than two of the heathen at
the most, whereas here, you see, it is always three and
sometimes four; therefore I weep, oh my brother, and will
not be comforted.
Fair days in the town bazaars are held upon Sundays and Thursdays,
when the Hebrew, Persian and Armenian merchants are surrounded by
crowds of Tekkes from neighbouring villages. Disposed for sale are
the innumerable commodities of the Middle East--rice from Meshed;
fruits from Samarkand; silk, sweetmeats and velvet from Bokhara; cheap
cutlery, trinkets, leather goods and samovars from Russia; beautiful
embroidery and shawls from the stores of the wealthier merchants;
carpets from Herat; sheepskins from the country-side; plough-shares
and knives from local forges; and relics of Old Merv. Prices are high;
but the Turcomans make their purchases very willingly, unconscious of
the contrast between their present peaceful demeanour and the attitude
which distinguished them when they were robbers of the countryside.
Apart from the garrison the population numbers less than 5000,
including:
_Races._ _Total._
Russians 2297
Armenians 609
Sarts 167
Tartars 85
Khivans 36
Afghans 33
Germans 38
Persians 838
Jews 225
Gruzenes 63
Tekkes 33
Bokharans 56
Ersaris 41
Poles 30
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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