Stronghold, militant monks, now toned down into the fattest of
smilingly begging Trappists, pretty actress come thither no doubt
to conceal her love affairs in the dense thickets and pines of this
rock-belted islet; all, down to the very names; "Lerins, Saint-Honorat,
Sainte-Marguerite," fit for Florian's fables, all is pleasing,
coquettish, romantic, poetic and rather insipid on the delightful
shores of Cannes.
To correspond with the antique manor embattled, slender and erect,
which looks towards the open sea at the extremity of Saint-Honorat,
Sainte-Marguerite is terminated on the land side by the celebrated
fortress in which the Man in the Iron Mask and Bazaine were confined.
A channel about a mile long stretches out between the headland of the
Croizette and the fortress, which has the aspect of an old squat house,
devoid of anything imposing or majestic. It seems to crouch down dull
and sly, a real trap for prisoners.
I can now see the three gulfs. In front, beyond the islands, lies
that of Cannes; nearer, the Gulf Juan, and behind the bay des Anges,
overtopped by the Alps and the snowy heights. Further off, the coasts
can be seen far beyond the Italian frontier, and with my glasses I can
sight at the end of a promontory the white houses of Bordighera.
[Illustration]
And everywhere, all along the endless coast, the towns by the seashore,
the villages perched up on high on the mountain side, the innumerable
villas dotted about in the greenery, all look like white eggs laid on
the sands, laid on the rocks, laid amongst the pine forests by gigantic
birds that have come in the night from the snowlands far above.
Villas again on the Cape of Antibes, a long tongue of land, a wonderful
garden thrown out between the seas, blooming with the most lovely
flowers of Europe, and at the extreme point, Eileen Rock, a charming
and whimsical residence that attracts visitors from Cannes and Nice.
The breeze has dropped, the yacht hardly makes any progress. After the
current of land wind that lasts all night, we are waiting and hoping
for a whiff of sea air, which will be most welcome, wherever it may
blow from.
Bernard still believes in a west wind, Raymond in an east one, and the
barometer remains motionless at a little above 76.
The sun now radiant, overspreads the earth, making the walls of the
houses sparkle from afar like scattered snow, and sheds over the sea a
light varnish of luminous blue.
Little by little, taking advantage of the faintest breath, of those
caresses of the air which one can hardly feel on the skin, but to which
nevertheless lively and well-trimmed yachts glide through the still
waters, we sail beyond the last point of the headland, and the whole
gulf of Juan, with the squadron in the centre of it, lies before us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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