On the 10th we arrived at Makukani’s, where we left our boats. We met with a most enthusiastic welcome here. About three hundred natives were on the banks, and Bismarck said, “It is to see the white lady”. By this time, we were among people who understood _yes_ and _no_, and said “good morning”. They were quite as fortunate in the use of their salutations as our friends had been at Quilimane. It was common there for a gentleman to _introduce_ himself in the evening by holding out his hand and saying _good night_, instead of good evening, greatly to the amusement of such of his friends as knew more of English. Intercourse with foreigners calls attention to the peculiarities of our own idiom. When we say to a native, “Now, look out,” he is very likely to look _out_, and thus expose himself to the very danger that he is warned against. If he had warned himself, he would have said ‘look _in_.’ One morning Ropa burnt my hand through my telling him to ‘hold on,’ when I wanted him to let go. He did ‘hold on’ most faithfully. At this place people came great distances to meet us. They had heard that Englishmen were come, and the new arrivals had been announced in such a way as to convey the impression that the Rev. Horace Waller had come back. Accordingly we had a visit from an old woman, accompanied by a man and woman much younger, who had all been members of the Magomero Mission. The old woman looked round to see if she could recognise “Atate anga, atate anga” (My father, my father,—meaning Mr. Waller), and when she failed she looked disappointed, and said in a kind of despairing inquiry, “There is no coming back for my father again?” She had no pelele, and on asking the reason we were told that Mr. Waller had taken it out. We soon discovered that the natives were great beggars. At the beginning of our river journey we were beset with people who requested rum (kachaso), here the cry was chiefly for cloth: it was only the men at the top of the social scale that begged for rum! The chief Makukani was a stout man, somewhat bent, and blind of an eye. He could be easily distinguished from his men, as his dress was even scantier than theirs. He expressed an earnest desire that the English would bring out a white wife for him. He has an enormous harem in which we saw one or two men armed with knob-sticks, whose duty, we were told, was to keep order among his wives. He promised to send his sons and daughters to school, but this was only the promise of politeness. His sons had been already at Livingstonia, where they had proved rather troublesome, and two years elapsed before they came to Blantyre. We occupied one of the chiefs huts all night, and started next afternoon for the Chiri hills. The carriers were at first likely to leave us at a spot where there was no roof to sleep under except the canopy of heaven, but on learning that Mr. Buchanan was at the Kabula we made them push on to reach him. Mrs.