Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples--Residence at Naples--The theatre of San Carlo--Rossini's operas--Gaming in Naples--The _Lazzaroni_--Public writers--Carbonarism--Return to Rome--Christmas eve at Santa Maria Maggiore--Mme Dionigi--Theatricals--Society in Rome--The papal government--Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino--Louis Napoleon, ex-King of Holland--Pope Pius VII--Thorwaldsen--Granet--The Holy Week in Rome--The Duchess of Devonshire--From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road. I started from Lausanne with a party of two ladies in a Milanese _vettura_ on the morning of the 20th September. We arrived at Milan on the 25th late in the evening. On passing the Simplon we met with three or four men who had the appearance of soldiers, and asked for alms something in the style of the old Spanish soldier who accosted Gil Blas on his first journey. Our ladies were a little alarmed. On travelling over the plains of Lombardy, one of these ladies, who had never before been out of her country (Switzerland) and was consequently accustomed to see the horizon bounded at a very short distance by immense mountains on all sides, was much alarmed, on arrival at the plain, at seeing no bounds to the horizon; she was apprehensive of _falling down_ and _rolling over_. Her remark reminded me of one of the objections made to the project of Columbus's voyage in discovery of a western passage to India; it was said that in consequence of the rotundity of the earth they would roll down and never be able to get up again. The sensation experienced by my fellow traveller, however, may be well accounted for and explained by any one who from a plain surface situated on a great height looks down without a railing or balcony. These ladies were quite delighted with the splendour and bustle of Milan and particularly when I took them to the _Scala_ theatre, where a very splendid _Ballo_ was given, intitled _Sammi Ré d'Egitto_. The scenery and decorations were magnificent, being taken from Denon's drawings of Egyptian views, and the costume was exceedingly appropriate. My fellow travellers were much struck at the appearance of the horses on the stage and the grotesque dancing. The last scene was the most magnificent. It represented the great Pyramids, on the angles of which stood a line of soldiers from the _base_ to the _apex_ holding lighted torches. The _coup d'oeil_ was enchanting. I took the ladies to see my old friend Girolamo and in fine was their _cicerone_ every where. We remained only four days at Milan and then proceeded to Florence, where we arrived on the 7th October. We employed six days for our journey and one day we halted at Bologna. After remaining four days at Florence and taking the Radicofani road we arrived at Rome the 18th October.