At Rome I met my friend P.G. and his wife who were travelling towards Naples and I likewise made two very pleasant acquaintances, the one a Portuguese, the other a Milanese. The Milanese is a cousin of the Neapolitan minister Di M------; and the Portuguese (M. de N------) had been employed by his Government in a diplomatic capacity at Vienna. At Rome I engaged appartments from the 20th of December for three months and then started for Naples, with the intention of passing two months there, and returning to Rome, to be in time to witness the fete at Christmas Eve. At Velletri I met with a Jamaica family, Mr and Mrs O------, with their daughter and daughter-in-law; and we were strongly advised to take an escort as far as _Torre tre ponti_, being obliged to start very early from Velletri in order to reach Terracina before night-fall. Nothing however occurred and we arrived at Terracina without accident. The rascally innkeeper there made Mr O------ pay forty franks for each miserable room that he occupied, and fifteen franks a head for his supper; he was very insolent with all. I was rejoiced to find that in one instance he failed in his hopes of extortion. As he is obliged by law to furnish supper and beds at a fixed price to those who travel with _vetturini_ and are _spesati_, he, whenever a _vetturino_ arrives locks up all his decent chambers and says that they are engaged, in order to keep them for those travellers who may arrive in their own carriages and whom he can fleece _ad libitum_. A friend of mine and his lady, who were travelling in their own carriage, had, in order to avoid this extortion, engaged with a _vetturino_ to conduct them from Naples to Rome with _his horses_, but their own carriage, and, had stipulated to be _spesati_. Mine host of Terracina, seeing a smart carriage drive up, ordered one of his best rooms to be got ready, ushered them in himself and returnd in half an hour to ask what they would have for supper; when to his great astonishment and mortification, they referred him for the arrangement of the supper to the _vetturino_, saying that they were _spesati_. He then began to curse and swear, said that they should not have that room, and wanted to turn them out of it forcibly; but my friend Major G---- took up one of his pistols, which were lying on the table, and told the innkeeper that if he did not cease to molest them and instantly quit the room, he would blow out his brains. This threat had the desired effect, and he withdrew. It appears that this fellow has in the end outwitted himself, for most people now, who travel on this road in their own carriage, chuse to travel with a _vetturino_ and his horses and are _spesati_, solely in order to avoid the extortion practised upon them.