From Paris to Bruxelles--Visiting the plains of Waterloo--The Duke de Berri at Lille--Beauvais--Return to Paris--Remarks on the French theatre --Talma--Mlle Duchesnois--Mlle Georges--French alexandrine verse--The Abbé Delille--The Opéra Comique. CHAPTER V From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the Simplon--Auxerre--Dijon--Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone--The army of the Loire--Mâcon--French _grisettes_--Lyons--Monuments and theatricals-- Geneva--Character and opinions of the Genevois--Voltaire's chateau at Ferney--The chevalier Zadera--From Geneva to Milan--Crossing the Simplon--Arona--The theatres in Milan--Rossini--Monuments in Milan--Art encouraged by the French--Mr Eustace's bigotry--Return to Switzerland --Clarens and Vevey--Lausanne--Society in Lausanne--Return to Paris--The Louvre stripped--Death of Marshal Ney. PART II CHAPTER VI MARCH-JUNE, 1816 Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington--An Adventure between Saint Quentin and Compiègne--Paris revisited--Colonel Wardle and Mrs Wallis--Society in Paris--The Sourds-Muets--The Cemetery of Père La Chaise--Apathy of the French people--The priests--Marriage of the Duke de Berri. CHAPTER VII Journey from Paris to Lausanne--Besançon--French refugees in Lausanne --Francois Lamarque--General Espinassy--Bordas--Gautier--Michau--M. de Laharpe--Mlle Michaud--Levade, a Protestant minister--Chambéry--Aix --Details about M. de Boigne's career in India--English Toryism and intolerance--Valley of Maurienne--Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at Suza--Turin. CHAPTER VIII Journey from Turin to Bologna--Asti--Schiller and Alfieri--Italian _cuisine_--The _vetturini_--Marengo--Piacenza--The Trebbia--Parma--The Empress Maria Louisa--Modena--Bologna--The University--The Marescalchi Gallery--Character of the Bolognese. CHAPTER IX Journey across the Appennines to Florence--Tuscan idioms and customs--Monuments and galleries at Florence--The Cascino--Churches-- Theatres--Popularity of the Grand Duke--Napoleon's downfall not regretted--Academies in Florence. CHAPTER X Journey from Florence to Rome--Sienna--Radicofani--Bolsena--Montefiascone wine--Viterbo--Baccano--The Roman Campagna--The papal _douans_--Monuments and Museums in Rome--Intolerance of the Catholic Christians--The Tiber and the bridges--Character of the Romans--The _Palazzi_ and _Ville_--Canova's atelier--Theatricals--An execution in Rome. CHAPTER XI From Rome to Naples--Albano--Velletri--The Marshes--Terracina--Mola di Gaeta--Capua--The streets of Naples--Monuments and Museums--Visit to Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius--Dangerous ventures--Puzzuoli and Baiae--Theatres at Naples--Pulcinello--Return to Rome--Tivoli. CHAPTER XII NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816