Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
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FROM THE SQUARE TO THE SOUTHERN QUARTERS.
ROUTE:—By the Place St. Catherine and Pompey’s Pillar to the
Mahmoudieh Canal, taking the Karmous Tram (Green Lozenge). The
Ragheb Pasha Tram (Red Crescent) and the Moharrem Bey tram (Red
Circle) also go from the Square to the Canal. There is also the
“Circular” Tram (Green Triangle) which crosses the three lines just
mentioned, on its course from Cairo Railway Station to the Docks.
There is a carriage road along the Canal.
CHIEF POINTS OF INTEREST:—Pompey’s Pillar, Kom es Chogafa Catacombs,
the Canal.
The Southern Quarters are neither smart nor picturesque. But they
include the site of Rhakotis, the nucleus of ancient Alexandria, and
preserve some remarkable antiquities (_see_ pp. 7, 18). Here too are
the churches and schools of the various religious and political
bodies (_see_ p. 211).
We start from the south side of the Square, and immediately reach
the _Place St. Catherine_, a triangular green. Here is the
traditional site of St. Catherine’s martyrdom, whence she was
transported to Mount Sinai by angels. But the legend only dates from
the 9th cent. and it is unlikely that the saint ever existed (_see_
p. 46). Franciscans settled here in the 15th cent. and built a
church that has disappeared. In 1832 Mohammed Ali granted land to
the Roman Catholics, and the present _Cathedral Church of St.
Catherine_ was begun. It fell down while it was being put up, but
undeterred by the omen the builders persisted, and here is the
result. Gaunt without and tawdry within, the Cathedral makes no
attempt to commemorate the exquisite legend round which so much that
is beautiful has gathered in the West; St. Catherine of Alexandria
is without grace in her own city. The approach to the church has
however a certain ecclesiastic calm.—Behind (entered from Rue Sidi
el Metwalli) is the Catholic Archbishop’s Palace; the wayside tomb
of the Mohammedan Saint Sidi el Metwalli, a prior arrival, abuts
into his Grace’s garden.
Left of the Cathedral is another in equally bad taste—the Cathedral
of the Greek Community (Greek Orthodox) dedicated to the
Annunciation. The Schools of the Community are close to it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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