Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
There is a road direct from Nouzha to Sidi Gaber (Section V) by the side
of the lake. It passes, left, the place where two colossal statues were
discovered: Antony as Osiris, and Cleopatra as Isis: Antony is in the
Museum (Garden Court, p. 120).
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SECTION V.
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FROM THE SQUARE TO RAMLEH.
ROUTE:—By the Boulevard Ramleh to the Tram Line terminus—10 min. walk.
Then take tram with red label to Bulkeley, San Stefano, and Victoria.
Tram with blue label goes to San Stefano only, _via_ Bacos. The service
is fair.
CHIEF POINTS OF INTEREST:—The Sea; the view from Abou el Nawatir;
private gardens; the Spouting Rocks.
We start at the north-east corner of the Square, and take the Rue de
l’Ancienne Bourse, in which are, right, the Union Club frequented by
British, and, left, the former Bourse—the latter not a bad building,
with a portico of marble columns and a vaulted interior; it is now the
offices of the Lloyd Triestino. The street leads into the Boulevard
Ramleh—turn to right.
The Boulevard (officially Rue de la Gare de Ramleh) is a busy shabby
thoroughfare, full of people who are escaping to or from the tram
terminus.
Right from Boulevard, in Rue Debbane, is a Greek and Syrian Catholic
Church, dedicated to St. Peter. (p. 213). It was built by Count Debbane,
a Syrian under Brazilian protection who received his title from the
Pope. His family vault extends along the whole length of the Chancel.
The scene is of no interest, but typical of the complexities of religion
and race at Alexandria.
Left from Boulevard, at end of Rue Averoff, is the church of the
Armenian Catholics (p. 213).
Right from Boulevard, in Rue de l’Eglise Copte, is the _Cathedral of the
Coptic Orthodox Patriarchate_ (p. 212) dedicated to St. Mark. Those who
have never seen a Coptic Church should look in. It is fatuously ugly. On
the screen that divides nave from sanctuary are several pictures—among
them St. Damiana with her wheel; she is the native Egyptian Saint who
was probably the origin of St. Catherine of Alexandria: round her are
the forty maidens who shared her martyrdom. In the sanctuary are some
pictures of St. Mark, whose primitive church is wrongly supposed to have
stood on this site (p. 46); he is shown writing his Gospel or standing
between Cleopatra’s Needle and Pompey’s Pillar. Outside the Church are
the Schools, ineptly adorned with a Lion of St. Mark of the Venetian
type.
Right from Boulevard, the Rue Nebi Daniel leads past the chief Jewish
Synagogue to the Rue Rosette (Section I).
The Boulevard reaches the tram terminus. To the right is the road to
Nouzha (Section IV), to the left the sea and the New Quays (Section II).
* * * * *
On this featureless spot once arose a stupendous temple, the Caesareum,
and a pair of obelisks, _Cleopatra’s Needles_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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