Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
The walls of the Arab city used to reach the sea at this point (cf.
Belon’s View, p. 83).; they ended in a tower that was swept away for the
New Quays. We now take the tram.
* * * * *
The first half mile of the tram lines traverses ground of immense
historical fame. Every inch was once sacred or royal. On the football
fields to the left were the Ptolemaic Palaces (p. 17) stretching down to
the sea and projecting into it at the Promontory of Lochias (present
Silsileh). There was also an island palace on a rock that has
disappeared. The walls of the Mouseion, too, are said to have extended
into the area, but we know no details and can only be certain that the
Ancient World never surpassed the splendour of the scene. On the right,
from the higher ground, the Theatre overlooked it, and the dramas of
Aeschylus and Euripides could be performed against the background of a
newer and a greater Greece. No eye will see that achievement again, no
mind can imagine it. Grit and gravel have taken its place to-day.
Right of the line on leaving:—The British Consulate, an imposing pile.
Next to it, the _Egyptian Government Hospital_ probably on the site of
the Ancient Theatre, so a visit should be made. In the garden is the
tomb of Dr. Schiess a former Director; an early Christian sarcophagus
has been used, and on each side of it are impressive Christian columns,
probably from the church of St. Theonas (p. 46) and each carved with a
cross in a little shrine. In the spiral ascent above the tomb are other
antiquities and a howitzer of Arabi’s: on the summit, an antique marble
column, erected in memory of Queen Victoria’s Jubilee.
* * * * *
MAZARITA STA.—A road leads, right, to the Public Gardens (Section IV)
and, left, to the Promontory of Silsileh (see above). The promontory,
like the rest of the coast, has subsided; in classical times it was
broader and longer than now, and extended in breakwaters towards the
Pharos (Fort Kait Bey), thus almost closing the entrance to the Eastern
Harbour. The private port of the Ptolemies lay immediately to its left.
A beacon, the Pharillon, was at its point in Arab times. The original
Church of St. Mark, where the evangelist was buried, must have stood on
the shore to its right. There is nothing to see to-day except a
coast-guard station and the exit of the main drain.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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