Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
The tramline here divides into two branches that reunite at San Stefano.
The left branch—more direct—goes by Saba Pacha (pretty cove in coast),
Glymenopoulo, Mazloum, Zizinia—all bathing places. The right branch,
through pretty palm gloves, via Fleming, Bacos, Seffer, Schutz,
Gianaclis (left is the fine new Mosque of Ahmed Pacha Yehia, the
statesman, with provision for his tomb).
* * * * *
SAN STEFANO STA.—Close to the Casino, a fashionable summer hotel, by the
side of a sea that seems especially fresh and blue. There are Symphony
concerts here in the season. The audience however comes not to listen
but to talk; their noise is so great that from a little distance the
orchestra appears to be performing in dumb show.
The tram goes on by St. George, Laurens and Palais stations to Sidi
Bishr, on the edge of a desert coast. Fine walk or ride past Sidi Bishr
Mosque to the _Spouting Rocks_. These are most remarkable. Masses of
limestone project into the sea, which penetrates beneath them and spouts
up through blow holes and cracks. Some of the vents have been
artificially squared, and the Ancient Alexandrians, who loved scientific
toys, may have fitted them up with musical horns or mechanical
mills.—The expedition may be continued along the coast to the woods of
Montazah (Section VII).
* * * * *
VICTORIA STA. The terminus. Here is a Ry. sta. for the Aboukir and
Rosetta lines (Section VII), also Victoria College, a huge building. It
offers an education on English Public School lines to residents in
Egypt, whatever their creed or race, and was much approved by Lord
Cromer, who founded a scholarship here.
The coast walk from Alexandria to Ramleh is rarely taken but is
charming—low crumbly cliffs, sandy beaches, flat rocks, and vestiges of
ancient houses and tombs that help one to realise how the whole site of
the city has sunk. There is no road east of Silsileh. The scheme for a
grandiose “Corniche” drive has fortunately failed, and the scenery has
escaped the standardised dulness that environs most big towns.
* * * * *
Ramleh can also be reached by the Aboukir Road, an extension of the Rue
Rosette (Section I).
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SECTION VI.
-------
FROM THE SQUARE TO MEX.
ROUTE:—By the Rue des Soeurs and Gabbari, taking the Mex Tram (White
Star). The journey is uncomfortable and uninspiring, but Mex is
pleasant.
We start from the south side of the Square, down the long Rue des
Soeurs, which takes its name from the Roman Catholic Convent and School
near its entrance. The surroundings become squalid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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