Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
Right of Rue des Soeurs:—Rue Behari Bey leads to the mound of
_Kom-el-Nadoura_, which rises abruptly out of mean streets. Its history
before the arrival of Napoleon (1798 p. 86) is unknown. His engineer
Cafarelli fortified it for him, and it held back the British advance in
1801, (p. 88). The entrance is on the south side, through a doorway by a
winding path fringed with prickly pear and pepper trees. The summit—104
feet above the sea—is now used as a signalling station and observatory
under the Ports and Lights Administration. Interesting set of
instruments, and fine view of harbour and city. At the N.N.W. corner are
some remains of Cafarelli’s masonry.—Outside the Fort, in the Rue
Babel-Akhdar (Section II) is the Gold and Silver Bazaar.
Left of Rue des Soeurs is the Genenah, a curious rabbit warren.
The tram passes down Rue Ibrahim Premier. To the right, close to the
docks, in the Rue Karam, is a Franciscan church and school. They are
modern and of no interest, but stand on a site that was important
historically. Here was the _Church of St. Theonas_ (p. 46) and the early
palace of the bishops. Here St. Athanasius was brought up. The Arabs
(641) incorporated what they found into a fine Mosque, called the Mosque
of the Seventy (from some fallacious connection with the Septuagint) or
the Mosque of the 1000 Columns. It was on the lines of the Mosque of Ibn
Touloun at Cairo; the Rue Karam bisects its area; its prayer niche faced
south west. It was standing in a ruined condition when the French came,
and was turned into artillery barracks.
Just before the tram reaches the Canal we pass, right, the cotton
exchange of Minet-el-Bassal. A visit—introduction necessary—is
interesting. The Exchange is round a pleasant courtyard, with a fountain
in the midst. Samples are exhibited. The whole neighbourhood is given up
to this, the main industry, of Alexandria; warehouses; picturesque
wooded machinery for cleaning the cotton and pressing it into bales; in
the season, the streets are slippery with greasy fluff.
The Mahmoudieh Canal (p. 91) is now crossed. The banks have here their
original stone casings and double descents, recalling the commercial
enterprise of Mohammed Ali. A walk along the banks to the left is dirty
but attractive; it can terminate at the Kom es Chogafa Catacombs
(Section III). Right, the Canal enters the Western Harbour.
Then comes the district of Gabbari, called after a sheikh of that name.
Here was the Western Cemetery of the Ancient City; the finds have been
taken to the Museum (Room 14). Nothing interesting until Mex.
_Mex_, once a fishing village, might have become a prosperous suburb of
Alexandria, like Ramleh. But the intervening slums have choked access to
it. It lies midway on the big curve of the Western Harbour, the waters
of Lake Mariout being close behind. There is a good pier, with a wooden
causeway that leads on to a distant rock. The little sea front has
rather a Neapolitan air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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