Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
Behind the Mosque:—Fort of Kom-el-Dik. View. Site of ancient Paneum or
Park of Pan—the summit of the hill was then carved into a pinecone,
which a spiral path ascended.—In Arab times the walls of the shrunken
city passed to the south of Kom-el-Dik, (p. 81), and a fine stretch of
them still survives, half-way between the base of the Fort and the
railway station; they border the road, but cannot be seen from it, being
sunken; they include a moat.—Beyond the Fort the high ground continues;
the little Arab quarter of Kom-el-Dik is built along its crest, and the
winding lanes, though insignificant, contrast pleasantly with the glare
of the European town.
We return to the Rue Rosette.
A little further down the Rue Rosette a turning on the left leads to the
_Church and Convent of St. Saba_, the seat of the Greek Orthodox
Patriarch. (For history of Patriarchate _see_ p. 211). A church was
founded here in 615, on the site of a Temple of Apollo. The present
group dates from 1687, and has an old world atmosphere that is rare in
Alexandria. In the quiet court of the Convent are three tomb stones of
British soldiers, dating from Napoleonic times: Colonel Arthur Brice of
the Coldstreams, k. in the Battle of Alexandria, 1801 (p. 88) Thomas
Hamilton Scott of the 78th, and Henry Gosle, military apothecary, who
both died during General Frazer’s disastrous “reconnoitering”
expedition, 1807, (p. 89).—From the court, steps descend to the church
which has been odiously restored. In the nave, eight ancient columns of
granite, now smeared with chocolate paint. In the apse of the sanctuary,
fresco of the Virgin and Child. Right—Chapel of St. George with a table
said to be 4th cent., and an interesting picture of the Council of
Nicaea (p. 48); the Emperor Constantine presides with the bishops around
him and the heretic Arius at his feet. Left—Chapel of St. Catherine of
Alexandria, with a block of marble purporting to come from the column
where the saint was martyred.—Hanging outside the church, three fine
bells.
At the top of the street, to left, is the Greek Hospital, a pleasant
building that stands in a garden.
* * * * *
The Rue Rosette now passes the Native Courts (left) and reaches the
Municipal Buildings. Behind the latter, a few yards up the Rue du Musée,
is the Municipal Library; go up the steps opposite the entrance gate;
push the door. The Library is good considering its miserable endowment;
the city that once had the greatest Library in the world now cannot
afford more than £300 per annum for the combined purchase and binding of
her books.
Beyond the library is a far more adequate institution—the Greco-Roman
Museum.
THE GRECO-ROMAN MUSEUM.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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