Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
Having now followed in the paths of the tourist and the official
tours of the Compagnie Transatlantique, it will perhaps be
interesting to cast a glance at the less-frequented routes. There
is no doubt that once one leaves the beaten track in Algeria one
travels in comparative discomfort, and that the accommodation is,
to say the least of it, primitive. Neither is it necessary to go
far from the main center to find these discomforts.
On the other hand, unless one has these experiences one does not
get to know the real people of the country whether they be Arabs or
Frenchmen. The true Algerian colonist is there in all his roughness,
talking vaguely about France as a paradise, which he may never
have seen, in spite of the little distance which separates Europe
from North Africa; treating the natives with a curious mixture
of comradeship and harshness, little interested in affairs not
affecting his actual district, and as unlike an Englishman in the
same situation as it is possible to imagine.
The common Arab, poor, ill-fed, lazy, working just as long as it is
necessary, dishonest when it is worth while, and quite unscrupulous
in matters of life and death, exists there with little ambition,
while the Arab chiefs whom one has perhaps met in magnificent clothes
at some official function live in these lost districts without any
ostentation. The only method of communication between the villages,
and they are usually some sixty or eighty miles apart, is by
road. Some of the richer cultivators and _caïds_ have motor-cars;
the well-to-do Arab rides, but it is usual to travel by the motor
_diligence_ which carries the mails. The _diligence_ usually starts
early in the morning, as, though it travels a good twenty miles an
hour, there is always the danger of a breakdown with no question
of outside help, and as they are under government contract it is
essential that they should have plenty of time to spare.
The bus is almost full at the start, but it expands its accommodation
in a most astonishing way as it picks up travelers who sit by
the roadside, and when it arrives at its destination the roof
and the running-boards are crowded with Arabs. People who have
correspondence for the post also wait at appointed places with
their letters, which are collected by the driver and taken along.
And in the same way the mail for the districts where there are no
roads is picked up by the postman as the _diligence_ dashes by.
Occasionally in years of famine there are holdups, and though the
driver is always armed, it is of little avail. The road is barred at
some convenient spot where there is cover, the _diligence_ stops, and
before any one realizes what has occurred the track is seething with
Arabs armed with blunder-busses and bludgeons, who take all there
is, puncture the tires and disappear as mysteriously as they came.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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