Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
Another form of delay is often created in summer by locusts, which
drift in great clouds across the road and in an inconceivably short
space of time clog up all the wheels with the fat of their crushed
bodies. And it is extremely difficult to clear them out and go on
if they are in any numbers.
The arrival of the _diligence_ in a small center is a great
event. The postmaster, who is also the telegrapher and postman
and bookkeeper, comes out with much dignity to receive the mail;
Arabs crowd round and gossip with the occupants of the second-class
compartment or with those on the roof; the tall gendarme walks
up and down with a look of imminent arrest on his mustached
countenance. At the terminus there is the same sensation while the
European traveler, stiff and dusty, wends his way to the only inn.
It is always a “Grand” Hotel “Something” with from twelve
to twenty rooms. There are many which are simply comfortable, where
one gets a good _cuisine bourgeoise_; these are among the smaller and
more remote and kept by a family of French people, the father looking
after the café, the mother cooking, the children doing all the rest
of the work. Meals are served at a common table with the family.
The rooms are sparsely furnished, but they are clean. But there are
many hotels where hygiene is unknown, where the food is cooked by
an Arab and is foully oily, and the rooms! . . . Too much or too
little can not be said about them, and the traveler is advised to
cast the well-used sheets into the farthest corner of the chamber,
place the mattress on the floor, put on his longest pair of trousers
and his stoutest boots and wrap himself up in his cloak. If he is
fortunate he will rise next morning immune from the night attack
of the denizens of the bedstead, but that is all.
Market-day is the time to see these little towns at their best.
It usually takes place on a Friday, the Mohammedan Sunday, and
from midday Thursday long caravans of Arabs with their flocks begin
appearing on the horizon and move slowly across the wide plain toward
the market town. Camels pad disdainfully along while the humble
donkey trots beside, great flocks of white sheep with their advance
guard of goats throwing up clouds of dust. The roads too have their
complement of travelers, and carriages and carts jolt along bearing
Arabs and French farmers; there are also horsemen and pedestrians,
while the motor-car and the _diligence_ bring buyers from Algiers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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