Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
It is a marvelous sight to see the streets of the little town
thronged with every type of Arab. Clear-eyed men from the nomad
tribes of the Larbas, and the Chambas in the far south; tall men with
haughty looks from the mountains, thin, wiry men from the rolling
plains of the Sersou, stout little Mzabites, pale and bearded,
selling their wares to the credulous Arabs as their Phœnician
ancestors did in the same land two thousand years ago. Here and
there an Arab chief— an _agha_ or a _caïd_—in a brilliant
cloth burnous, moves in stately manner, greeting friends with
the brotherly embrace and receiving the kiss of submission on the
shoulder from the members of his tribe with as much dignity as a
king of old accepting homage from his vassals.
When night falls the little hotel is full of bronzed-faced colonists
and wool merchants and sheep breeders, discussing the prospects
of the harvest and the probable price of wool and livestock over
glasses of anisette and water. The scene in the café is really a
most entertaining spectacle of all classes and races mingling in
friendly chat.
Sometimes there is an Arab flutist from the far south earning his
dinner, sometimes there is a Spanish sheep-farmer with his guitar,
sometimes there is a row among Arabs and one sees the glint of the
steel dagger, which alone the children of the Faithful know how to
wield with dexterous rapidity.
In the Arab coffee-houses too the animation is great, and the guests
flow out into the streets and squat by the wall holding their cups
of coffee or mint tea in their hands. Inside some one is singing a
ballad, accompanied by a flute or a mandolin, while up the road one
can hear the rhythmical beat of the _tam-tam_ and strident squeal
of the _raïta_ of some rival establishment. Away in the dancing
girls’ quarter the gaiety continues until the Arab policeman,
blowing on his trumpet, sends all the Faithful to bed, for the most
part under the bright stars.
At dawn the city is astir, the coffee-houses are again open, and
the shepherds are gathering about the _fondouks_, where they have
lodged their animals for the night. The more thrifty, who have
preferred to sleep out on the plains with their flocks rather than
pay lodging to the _fondouk_ keeper, are already on the market-place,
a broad open area clear of the city.
There are twenty thousand ewes and as many lambs to be sold
to-day. It is an amazing sight to see hundreds of flocks herded
together, with here and there a black patch where stand the goats.
A little apart from the sheep is the donkey market—poor little
beasts blinking patiently in the sun, while a little farther on the
camels groan and gurgle as if they resented being vulgarly disposed
of in a sheep-market.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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