Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
We returned to the garden and were led with reverence to the tomb of
the _marabout_. It was built round an ancient tree under which he was
wont to take his afternoon sleep. A light burned perpetually there.
We visited the domain, and the richness of the vast garden in the
middle of the desolate land was almost as impressive as the pomp
of the house.
At seven-thirty we dined, and as the _caïd_ had predicted, our
meal was partaken without the host. There was a sheep roasted
whole, with one of the best Bordeaux wines I had tasted for a long
time. Afterward the little _marabout_ came in and took his coffee
with us in the gorgeous drawing-room. We talked for a while about
shooting and then, turning toward a battered piano, contrasting
sadly with the rest of the furnishings, he asked if any one could
play. My English companion was persuaded to approach the keyboard.
The holy atmosphere inspired him to play Nazareth, but the sounds
evoked from the yellow notes were so unexpected that he swiftly
changed into a Waldteufel waltz, though it did not sound at all
like the tune I knew. However, this did not in the least matter,
and the Arabs sat spellbound as the unspeakable discords burst from
the instrument which had not been tuned for fifty years.
Finally the party broke up and we retired to our respective
apartments in an atmosphere of decadent grandeur. During the night
I was awakened by the casements rattling, and though I tried to
turn over and sleep again, I knew instinctively what it meant. As
soon as I was called I walked out on to the terrace and at once
realized that my intuition was right. A fierce wind was blowing up
from the southeast and clouds of sand and dust were whirling across
the desert. As the day increased the wind rose and the sand which
had merely been coming in gusts became a cloud which swept across
the land, enveloping all.
The sun tried to pierce the pall of dust, but little by little
it was obliterated and the atmosphere became that of a sea mist
mixed up with a London fog. Dust, sand, grit filtered its way in
everywhere while the wind roared through the cypress trees and
about the house. By lunch-time the sand-storm was at its height
and the light of day was no brighter than at dusk. We had, however,
promised to go over to Aïn Mahdi, a few miles farther on, and visit
the head _marabout_. We rolled ourselves in burnouses, wrapped our
heads in _chechs_, and started off in the car. The Djebel Amour was
quite obscured, and the whirling sand stung our faces, while above,
miles above it seemed, the great yellow cloud swept on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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