Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
If the weather is fine it is strongly recommended that one stay
until the sunset, as the spectacle of the sun disappearing behind
the hills of Algiers, making of it a great brazier of flame,
compensates one for the drive back in the dusk. But really to
appreciate Laperouse it must be visited on a summer day. The heavy
atmosphere of Algiers is left behind, and one finds oneself in a
sea of light and freshness. The water lazily laps the cliffs and
ripples up on the golden sand. It is never too hot, as the breeze
comes from over the sea and, bathing on the hottest day, one can
not stay in the water for more than half an hour. The nights are
cool, and the twinkling lights of Algiers across the bay, while
the summer moon flashes in the tranquil sea, equal a vision from
the _Arabian Nights_.
The second excursion is to the west of Algiers to Tipaza and, if
time permits, as far as Cherchell. It is advised to do it in two
days, as there is much to be seen and little time to appreciate
all in a short winter’s day. If, however, time is pressing,
Cherchell can be omitted and Tipaza alone visited.
The actual distance is some fifty miles, and the road runs
delightfully along the coast all the time. The way is bordered by
endless vegetable gardens, for it is along this part of the coast
that all the _primeurs_ are grown for the Paris markets.
Castiglione is a pretty little village on the sea coast, as is
also Berard, but as in the case of Laperouse they must be imagined
in the summer full of holiday-making Algerians. A little beyond
Berard can be seen a strange-looking object on the top of the hill,
resembling a very large beehive. It is in reality a mausoleum
known as the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_. To visit this it will
be necessary to leave the car and climb up a steep path some six
hundred feet above the sea. On reaching the pyramid one is struck
with a certain similarity with its cousins in Egypt and, in fact,
there is reason in this resemblance. One hundred and twenty feet
high, with a diameter of one hundred and eighty feet, it is composed
of great blocks of stone rising in tiers, and is said to have been
built by Juba II. Juba II, it will be remembered, was the son of Juba
I, defeated by Cæsar at Thapsus in 46 B. C. The boy was taken to
Rome and brought up most carefully by Octavia, Cæsar’s sister,
and was ultimately married to Cleopatra Selene, the daughter of
Antony and Cleopatra. In 43 B. C., when the Roman Empire was finally
established and the second triumvirate had divided the territory
among its members, Octavius restored the old kingdom of Numidia,
and in 30 B. C. appointed Juba II as its king.
Cæsarea, now Cherchell, became his capital, and for fifty years
was the most magnificent city of North Africa. The _Tombeau de la
Chrétienne_ was constructed as the mausoleum for his wife.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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