Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
There is no real evidence for this story, and many will say that
the tomb is much before the time of the Romans. However, the fact
remains that this edifice is quite close to the capital of Juba’s
kingdom, and that there is another monument practically identical
in construction near Batna, in the department of Constantine,
which is known as the tomb of Syphax, another Numidian king, and
that they both have a certain resemblance to the Pyramid of Cheops.
The road continues along the seacoast, delighting the eye by the
contrast of the sapphire blue of the Mediterranean lapping the deep
red rocks fringed with brilliant green scrub. Eucalyptus woods are
passed until the road runs down to the little fishing-village of
Tipaza. The Hotel du Rivage is an excellent inn nestling against
the red cliffs, while the garden runs down to the miniature port,
little changed since the days of the Phœnician traders.
If time is not of importance, a few days spent here in peace and
quiet will not be regretted. Originally a Phœnician settlement,
Tipaza became in the first century of our era a Roman summer resort
for the rich settlers in Cæsarea (Cherchell). All that could be
done to make it a center of luxury and pleasure was carried out with
infinite care. The temples, the forum, the villas were designed to
harmonize with the beauties of nature.
Thanks to private enterprise much of the ruins has been unearthed
and one is able to reconstruct this town as it was. Sarcophagi of
great beauty have been found, and mosaics in a very good state of
preservation have been placed in a small museum by the hotel.
The joy of the place is not so much the actual finds, but being able
to realize again the pleasant atmosphere which must have reigned
among the wealthy Romans as they walked up and down the forum,
which dominates the bay, or dined merrily in the villas looking
down on the rippling sea.
Later, when Christianity appeared, there must have been a very fine
church to the west of the original town, whence one gets a delightful
view of the sandy shore which runs along toward the towering heights
of the Chenoua Mountains. Here, too, the heat-oppressed Algerians
come in summer to escape from the damp atmosphere of the white city,
and the bathing is wonderful.
Cherchell is some twenty miles farther along the coast. The drive
itself is not very interesting, and the town, after Tipaza, is
disappointing. There is, however, a very excellent museum, and to
those interested in the statues of Rome of that period the visit
is worth while. Otherwise the return journey from Tipaza can either
be made by the same way in the golden glory of the African sunset,
or else inland through the vine-clad hills via Marengo and Kolea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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