All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
Started originally as a tavern, this hostelry added coffee to its
cuisine and became famous in the reign of Louis XV The illustration is
from an early print used to advertise the "Royal Drummer's" attractions]
CHAPTER XI
HISTORY OF THE EARLY PARISIAN COFFEE HOUSES
_The introduction of coffee into Paris by Thevenot in 1657--How
Soliman Aga established the custom of coffee drinking at the court
of Louis XIV--Opening the first coffee houses--How the French
adaptation of the Oriental coffee house first appeared in the real
French cafe of Francois Procope--The important part played by the
coffee houses in the development of French literature and the
stage--Their association with the Revolution and the founding of
the Republic--Quaint customs and patrons--Historic Parisian cafes_
If we are to accept the authority of Jean La Roque, "before the year
1669 coffee had scarcely been seen in Paris, except at M. Thevenot's and
at the homes of some of his friends. Nor had it been heard of except in
the writings of travelers."
As noted in chapter V, Jean de Thevenot brought coffee into Paris in
1657. One account says that a decoction, supposed to have been coffee,
was sold by a Levantine in the Petit Chatelet under the name of _cohove_
or _cahoue_ during the reign of Louis XIII, but this lacks confirmation.
Louis XIV is said to have been served with coffee for the first time in
1664.
Soon after the arrival, in July, 1669, of the Turkish ambassador,
Soliman Aga, it became noised abroad that he had brought with him for
his own use, and that of his retinue, great quantities of coffee. He
"treated several persons with it, both in the court and the city." At
length "many accustomed themselves to it with sugar, and others who
found benefit by it could not leave it off."
Within six months all Paris was talking of the sumptuous coffee
functions of the ambassador from Mohammed IV to the court of Louis XIV.
Isaac D'Israeli best describes them in his _Curiosities of Literature_:
On bended knee, the black slaves of the Ambassador, arrayed in the
most gorgeous Oriental costumes, served the choicest Mocha coffee
in tiny cups of egg-shell porcelain, hot, strong and fragrant,
poured out in saucers of gold and silver, placed on embroidered
silk doylies fringed with gold bullion, to the grand dames, who
fluttered their fans with many grimaces, bending their piquant
faces--be-rouged, be-powdered and be-patched--over the new and
steaming beverage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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