All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
It was in 1669 or 1672 that Madame de Sevigne (Marie de Rabutin-Chantal;
1626-96), the celebrated French letter-writer, is said to have made that
famous prophecy, "There are two things Frenchmen will never
swallow--coffee and Racine's poetry," sometimes abbreviated into,
"Racine and coffee will pass." What Madame really said, according to one
authority, was that Racine was writing for Champmesle, the actress, and
not for posterity; again, of coffee she said, "_s'en degouterait comme;
d'un indigne favori_" (People will become disgusted with it as with an
unworthy favorite).
Larousse says the double judgment was wrongly attributed to Mme. de
Sevigne. The celebrated aphorism, like many others, was forged later.
Mme. de Sevigne said, "Racine made his comedies for the Champmesle--not
for the ages to come." This was in 1672. Four years later, she said to
her daughter, "You have done well to quit coffee. Mlle. de Mere has also
given it up."
[Illustration: COFFEE WAS FIRST SOLD AND SERVED PUBLICLY IN THE FAIR OF
ST.-GERMAIN
From a Seventeenth-Century Print]
However it may have been, the amiable letter-writer was destined to live
to see Frenchmen yielding at once to the lure of coffee and to the
poetical artifices of the greatest dramatic craftsman of his day.
While it is recorded that coffee made slow progress with the court of
Louis XIV, the next king, Louis XV, to please his mistress, du Barry,
gave it a tremendous vogue. It is related that he spent $15,000 a year
for coffee for his daughters.
Meanwhile, in 1672, one Pascal, an Armenian, first sold coffee publicly
in Paris. Pascal, who, according to one account, was brought to Paris by
Soliman Aga, offered the beverage for sale from a tent, which was also a
kind of booth, in the fair of St.-Germain, supplemented by the service
of Turkish waiter boys, who peddled it among the crowds from small cups
on trays. The fair was held during the first two months of spring, in a
large open plot just inside the walls of Paris and near the Latin
Quarter. As Pascal's waiter boys circulated through the crowds on those
chilly days the fragrant odor of freshly made coffee brought many ready
sales of the steaming beverage; and soon visitors to the fair learned to
look for the "little black" cupful of cheer, or _petit noir_, a name
that still endures.
When the fair closed, Pascal opened a small coffee shop on the Quai de
l'Ecole, near the Pont Neuf; but his frequenters were of a type who
preferred the beers and wines of the day, and coffee languished. Pascal
continued, however, to send his waiter boys with their large coffee
jugs, that were heated by lamps, through the streets of Paris and from
door to door. Their cheery cry of "_cafe! cafe!_" became a welcome call
to many a Parisian, who later missed his _petit noir_ when Pascal gave
up and moved on to London, where coffee drinking was then in high favor.
[Illustration: STREET COFFEE VENDER OF PARIS--PERIOD, 1672 TO 1689--TWO
SOUS PER DISH, SUGAR INCLUDED]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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