All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
Lacking favor at court, coffee's progress was slow. The French smart set
clung to its light wines and beers. In 1672, Maliban, another Armenian,
opened a coffee house in the rue Bussy, next to the Metz tennis court
near St.-Germain's abbey. He supplied tobacco also to his customers.
Later he went to Holland, leaving his servant and partner, Gregory, a
Persian, in charge. Gregory moved to the rue Mazarine, to be near the
Comedie Francaise. He was succeeded in the business by Makara, another
Persian, who later returned to Ispahan, leaving the coffee house to one
Le Gantois, of Liege.
About this period there was a cripple boy from Candia, known as le
Candiot, who began to cry "coffee!" in the streets of Paris. He carried
with him a coffee pot of generous size, a chafing-dish, cups, and all
other implements necessary to his trade. He sold his coffee from door to
door at two sous per dish, sugar included.
[Illustration: MANY OF THE EARLY PARISIAN COFFEE HOUSES FOLLOWED
PASCAL'S LEAD AND AFFECTED ARMENIAN DECORATIONS
From a Seventeenth-Century Print]
A Levantine named Joseph also sold coffee in the streets, and later had
several coffee shops of his own. Stephen, from Aleppo, next opened a
coffee house on Pont au Change, moving, when his business prospered, to
more pretentious quarters in the rue St.-Andre, facing St.-Michael's
bridge.
[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE HISTORIC CAFE DE PROCOPE SHOWING VOLTAIRE
AND DIDEROT IN DEBATE
From a rare water color]
All these, and others, were essentially the Oriental style of coffee
house of the lower order, and they appealed principally to the poorer
classes and to foreigners. "Gentlemen and people of fashion" did not
care to be seen in this type of public house. But when the French
merchants began to set up, first at St.-Germain's fair, "spacious
apartments in an elegant manner, ornamented with tapestries, large
mirrors, pictures, marble tables, branches for candles, magnificent
lustres, and serving coffee, tea, chocolate, and other refreshments",
they were soon crowded with people of fashion and men of letters.
In this way coffee drinking in public acquired a badge of
respectability. Presently there were some three hundred coffee houses in
Paris. The principal coffee men, in addition to plying their trade in
the city, maintained coffee rooms in St.-Germain's and St.-Laurence's
fairs. These were frequented by women as well as men.
_The Progenitor of the Real Parisian Cafe_
It was not until 1689, that there appeared in Paris a real French
adaptation of the Oriental coffee house. This was the Cafe de Procope,
opened by Francois Procope (Procopio Cultelli, or Cotelli) who came from
Florence or Palermo. Procope was a _limonadier_ (lemonade vender) who
had a royal license to sell spices, ices, barley water, lemonade, and
other such refreshments. He early added coffee to the list, and
attracted a large and distinguished patronage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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