All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
After the Revolution, the Cafe de Procope lost its literary prestige and
sank to the level of an ordinary restaurant. During the last half of the
nineteenth century, Paul Verlaine, bohemian, poet, and leader of the
symbolists, made the Cafe de Procope his haunt; and for a time it
regained some of its lost popularity. The Restaurant Procope still
survives at 13 rue de l'Ancienne Comedie.
History records that, with the opening of the Cafe de Procope, coffee
became firmly established in Paris. In the reign of Louis XV there were
600 cafes in Paris. At the close of the eighteenth century there were
more than 800. By 1843 the number had increased to more than 3000.
_The Development of the Cafes_
Coffee's vogue spread rapidly, and many cabarets and famous eating
houses began to add it to their menus. Among these was the Tour d'Argent
(silver tower), which had been opened on the Quai de la Tournelle in
1582, and speedily became Paris's most fashionable restaurant. It still
is one of the chief attractions for the epicure, retaining the
reputation for its cooking that drew a host of world leaders, from
Napoleon to Edward VII, to its quaint interior.
[Illustration: THE CAFE DE PROCOPE IN 1743
From an engraving by Bosredon]
Another tavern that took up coffee after Procope, was the Royal
Drummer, which Jean Ramponaux established at the Courtille des
Porcherons and which followed Magny's. His hostelry rightly belongs to
the tavern class, although coffee had a prominent place on its menu. It
became notorious for excesses and low-class vices during the reign of
Louis XV, who was a frequent visitor. Low and high were to be found in
Ramponaux's cellar, particularly when some especially wild revelry was
in prospect. Marie Antoinette once declared she had her most enjoyable
time at a wild _farandole_ in the Royal Drummer. Ramponaux was taken to
its heart by fashionable Paris; and his name was used as a trade mark on
furniture, clothes, and foods.
[Illustration: THE CASHIER'S COUNTER IN A PARIS COFFEE HOUSE OF 1782
From a drawing by Retif de la Bretonne]
The popularity of Ramponaux's Royal Drummer is attested by an
inscription on an early print showing the interior of the cafe.
Translated, it reads:
The pleasures of ease untroubled to taste,
The leisure of home to enjoy without haste,
Perhaps a few hours at Magny's to waste,
Ah, that was the old-fashioned way!
Today all our laborers, everyone knows,
Go running away ere the working hours close,
And why? They must be at Monsieur Ramponaux'!
Behold, the new style of cafe!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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