All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
When coffee houses began to crop up rapidly in Paris, the majority
centered in the Palais Royal, "that garden spot of beauty, enclosed on
three sides by three tiers of galleries," which Richelieu had erected in
1636, under the name of Palais Cardinal, in the reign of Louis XIII. It
became known as the Palais Royal in 1643; and soon after the opening of
the Cafe de Procope, it began to blossom out with many attractive coffee
stalls, or rooms, sprinkled among the other shops that occupied the
galleries overlooking the gardens.
_Life In The Early Coffee Houses_
Diderot tells in 1760, in his _Rameau's Nephew_, of the life and
frequenters of one of the Palais Royal coffee houses, the Regency (_Cafe
de la Regence_):
In all weathers, wet or fine, it is my practice to go toward five
o'clock in the evening to take a turn in the Palais Royal.... If
the weather is too cold or too wet I take shelter in the Regency
coffee house. There I amuse myself by looking on while they play
chess. Nowhere in the world do they play chess as skillfully as in
Paris and nowhere in Paris as they do at this coffee house; 'tis
here you see Legal the profound, Philidor the subtle, Mayot the
solid; here you see the most astounding moves, and listen to the
sorriest talk, for if a man be at once a wit and a great chess
player, like Legal, he may also be a great chess player and a sad
simpleton, like Joubert and Mayot.
The beginnings of the Regency coffee house are associated with the
legend that Lefevre, a Parisian, began peddling coffee in the streets of
Paris about the time Procope opened his cafe in 1689. The story has it
that Lefevre later opened a cafe near the Palais Royal, selling it in
1718 to one Leclerc, who named it the Cafe de la Regence, in honor of
the regent of Orleans, a name that still endures on a broad sign over
its doors. The nobility had their rendezvous there after having paid
their court to the regent.
[Illustration: THE CAFE FOY IN THE PALAIS ROYAL, 1789
From an engraving by Bosredon]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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