World War, 1914-1918 -- France -- Alsace; World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives
And he didn’t know whence he had come nor whither he was going. Then
either his train moved or mine did—I couldn’t tell which—and I saw him no
more.
_Vandœuvres-sur-Barse._—Wood, wood, piled high on every kind of wheeled
thing. Forests from which it had been cut showing sharp and thin,
fringing the gold-brown fields under the luminous noonday heaven. And
here for a moment the green was so delicate and the yellow so tender,
that I had a fleeting illusion of spring as I looked out.
Then I fell to talking with some young officers of the 131st Artillery
from Texas, but nothing that I remember. They had made no impression on
France, neither did France seem to have made any impression on them.
_Bar-sur-Aube._—Old houses, old walls, blue hills, a white road leading
over one of them. Strange church tower, with a round, many-windowed top,
and in each window hangs an old bell. A great trainload of American
infantry “going up,” the station, too, flooded with khaki, and another
train passed crowded with _poilus_ evidently _en permission_, making
rather fundamental toilets.
And around about Bar, as we slipped out, was a silver-vaulted world of
terra-cotta and purple hills, green and brown fields, silver hayricks,
silver sheep grazing near, and warm, brindled cattle, many green-painted
bee-hives, and fruit trees trained against pink walls. Gentle slopes,
later to become the Alps, appeared, and beech forests, like very worn
India shawls, clung to them, and a row of nearby poplars had each its
nimbus of yellow light.
About this time, having had a hasty cup of tea at six, I began to be
so hungry that the luster went from the landscape and my eyes received
nothing more. I didn’t care whether the talkative man gave his wife a
surprise or not, and the two Americans of the Texan Artillery section had
long since also ceased to interest me, when I heard a “nosy” voice saying:
“Gosh! I tell you, boys, there’s big money to be made over here after
the war. All you have to do is to hang out the sign, ‘American Dentist,’
and your waiting-room’ll burst.” I sat down and nearly slept by the
side of the six-foot dozing handsome officer, with the beautiful blue
uniform, and yellow pipings on his trousers and cap, and five service and
three wound stripes, and the number 414 on his collar, besides a lot of
decorations on his breast.
_1.30, Chaumont._—Sitting in the dining-car, finishing an excellent
lunch. Of course, in common with the rest of the world, I’ve heard a good
deal about Chaumont, but I can say that on the word of honor of an honest
woman the only thing I saw in khaki in that famous station of the A.E.F.
Headquarters was an emaciated Y.M.C.A. man about five feet four inches
high, with an umbrella and a straw basket.
Of course, I’m familiar with the phrases, “Chaumont has put its
foot down,” “Chaumont won’t have it,” “Everything will be decided at
Chaumont”; and once, entering a Paris restaurant, I heard the words,
“It’s all Chaumont’s fault.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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