FACING PAGE Charleston is the last stronghold of a unified American upper class; the last remaining American city in which Madeira and Port and _noblesse oblige_ are fully and widely understood, and are employed according to the best traditions _Frontispiece_ "Railroad tickets!" said the baggageman with exaggerated patience 8 Can most travellers, I wonder, enjoy as I do a solitary walk, by night, through the mysterious streets of a strange city? 17 Coming out of my slumber with the curious and unpleasant sense of being stared at, I found his eyes fixed upon me 24 Mount Vernon Place is the centre of Baltimore 32 If she is shopping for a dinner party, she may order the costly and aristocratic diamond-back terrapin, sacred in Baltimore as is the Sacred Cod in Boston 48 Doughoregan Manor--the house was a buff-colored brick 65 I began to realize that there was no one coming 80 Harper's Ferry is an entrancing old town; a drowsy place piled up beautifully yet carelessly upon terraced roads clinging to steep hillsides 100 "What's the matter with him?" I asked, stopping 117 When I came down, dressed for riding, my companion was making a drawing; the four young ladies were with him, none of them in riding habits 124 Claymont Court is one of the old Washington houses 132 Chatham, the old Fitzhugh house, now the residence of Mark Sullivan 148 Monticello stands on a lofty hilltop, with vistas, between trees of neighboring valleys, hills, and mountains 157 Like Venice, the University of Virginia should first be seen by moonlight 168 One party was stationed on the top of an old-time mail-coach, bearing the significant initials "F.F.V." 180 The Piedmont Hunt Race Meet 189 The Southern negro is the world's peasant supreme 200 The Country Club of Virginia, out to the west of Richmond 216 Judge Crutchfield 228 Negro women squatting upon boxes in old shadowy lofts stem the tobacco leaves 237 The Judge: "What did he do, Mandy?" 244 Some genuine old-time New York ferryboats help to complete the illusion that Norfolk is New York 253 "The Southern statesman who serves his section best, serves his country best" 280