Cooking -- Periodicals; Home economics -- Periodicals
A certain Englishman who breakfasted with the Washington family in 1794
wrote of the occasion: "Mrs. Washington, herself, made tea and coffee
for us. On the table were two small plates of sliced tongue and dry
toast, bread and butter, but no broiled fish, as is the general custom."
However sparing the mistress of Mt. Vernon might have been, it was the
usual custom in old times to eat a hearty breakfast of meat or fish and
potato, hot biscuits, doughnuts, griddle cakes and sometimes even pie
was added. A section of hot mince pie was always considered a fitting
ending to the winter morning meal in New England, at least.
When Charles Dickens was in the United States, in 1842, he stopped at
the old Tremont house in Boston. In his "American Notes," which followed
his visit to this country, he wrote critically of the American
breakfast, as follows: "And breakfast would have been no breakfast
unless the principal dish were a deformed beefsteak with a great flat
bone in the center, swimming in hot butter and sprinkled with the very
blackest of pepper."
For a time my household included a colored cook, who, according to local
custom, went to her own home every night. Invariably before leaving she
came to me with the short and abrupt question, "What's for?" This
experience taught me the difficulty of planning breakfasts off hand.
More than one beginner in housekeeping wonders whether a light breakfast
of little but a roll and coffee is more healthful than one of several
courses. It is an old American idea that luncheon or supper may be
light, dinner varied and heavier, but breakfast must be wholesome and
nourishing. This is based on the belief that it is natural for man and
beast to wake up in the morning with a desire for food and unnatural to
try to do the hardest work of the day with but a pretence at eating.
About twenty years ago there was much talk of the alleged healthfulness
of going without breakfast entirely. For a time this plan was the object
of much discussion and experiment by medical and scientific men and
workers in general. The late Edward Everett Hale was a strong opponent
to abstinence from breakfast by brain workers, while those who labored
with hand and muscle looked with little favor on the morning fast.
Finally the no-breakfast idea went the way of most fads in food.
As a compromise between the extremes of going without any breakfast, and
the old-time, over-hearty meal of several courses, there came into
fashion the simple meal of fruit, cereal and eggs. This is to be
commended, if the egg, or its substitute in food value, is not omitted.
Too often a sloppy cereal is washed down rapidly with a cup of coffee
and called sufficient. Sometimes the ready-to-eat cereal and the milk
bottle left at the kitchen door include the entire preparation for the
morning meal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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