American grape training : $b An account of the leading forms now in use of training the American grapesBailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Science
American grape training : $b An account of the leading forms now in use of training the American grapes
Bailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Viticulture -- United States
The second season after planting should see the vine tied to the first
wire. Fig. 10 is a photograph taken in July, 1892, of a Concord vine
which was set in the spring of 1891. In the fall of 1891 the vine was
cut back to three or four buds, and in the spring of 1892 two of these
buds were allowed to make canes. These two canes are now tied to the
wire, which was stretched in the spring of 1892. In this case, the
branches start near the surface of the ground. Sometimes only a single
strong shoot grows, and in order to secure the two branches it is broken
over where it passes the wire, and is usually tied to a stake to afford
support. Fig. 11 shows this operation. A bud will develop at the bend or
break, from which a cane can be trained in the opposite direction from
the original portion, and the T-head is secured.
[Illustration: 12. THE THIRD SEASON OF HIGH RENEWAL.--CONCORD.]
[Illustration: 13. HIGH RENEWAL, BEFORE PRUNING.--CATAWBA.]
The close of the second season after planting, therefore, will usually
find the vine with two good canes extending in opposite directions and
tied to the wire. The pruning at that time will consist in cutting off
the ends of these canes back to firm and strong wood, which will leave
them bearing from five to eight buds. The third season, shoots will grow
upright from these buds and will be tied to the second wire, which has
now been supplied. Late in the third season the vine should have much
the appearance of that shown in fig. 12. The third wire is usually added
to the trellis at the close of the second season, at the same time that
the second wire is put on; but occasionally this is delayed until the
close of the third season. Some of the upright shoots may bear a few
grapes this third season, but unless the vines are very strong the
flower clusters should be removed; and a three-year-old vine should
never be allowed to bear heavily. It must be remembered, however, that
both these horizontal canes, with all their mass of herbage, are to be
cut away in the fall or winter of the third year. Some provision must
have been made, therefore, for the top for the fourth year. It will be
recalled that in discussing the renewal pruning (page 16, fig. 5), it
was found that two or more shoots are allowed to grow each year to form
the basis of the top the following year. In fig. 12 three or four such
shoots can be seen springing from the Y-shaped portion in the center of
the vine. These shoots or canes are to be bent down to the lowest wire
next spring, and the bearing shoots will arise from them. This process
will be seen at a glance from figs. 13, 14 and 15. The first shows a
full grown old vine, trained on three wires. Fig. 14 shows the same vine
when pruned. Two long canes, with six or eight buds each, are left to
form the top of the following year. The two stubs from which the renewal
canes are to grow for the second year's top are seen in the center. In
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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