Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
Although the park as a park did not exist until long after his visit,
and good roads and trails now take the place of the rough paths he had
to follow, William Spotswood Green's _Among the Selkirk Glaciers_, is
still the most satisfactory and entertaining introduction that one can
find, or wish for, to this mountain playground. Green came to the
Selkirks in 1888, after years of delightful experience in the Alps and
the great mountains of New Zealand. He left with the conviction that
he had seen nothing elsewhere more impressive or more fascinating than
these mountains of British Columbia. "Dark green forest, rushing
streams, purple peaks, silvery ice, a cloudless sky, and a most
transparent atmosphere," he says, "all combine to form a perfect
Alpine paradise."
One of his first visits was to the Illecillewaet Glacier, which then
entailed a slow and more or less painful scramble through a wilderness
of fallen timber, tangled thickets of alder scrub, and the
appropriately named devil's club. To-day one reaches the foot of the
glacier by way of a delightful and well-kept trail through the forest,
the trail starting from the doors of Glacier House, the large and
comfortable hotel maintained by the Canadian Pacific Railway at the
headquarters of the park.
On the way he had an opportunity of observing the tremendous
destructive power of avalanches. "The hemlock, balsam, and Douglas
firs, though as stout as ships' masts, had been snapped off close to
their roots; some were torn up and driven long distances from where
they grew, and lay in heaps, but the general position of the trunks
pointed distinctly to the direction from which the destroying
avalanche had come. Even the boulders of the moraine showed signs of
having been shifted, some of them huge blocks of quartzite, one I
measured 50 X 33 X 24 feet. No better illustration could be presented
of the overwhelming power of an avalanche, though composed of nothing
else than the accumulation of a winter's snow."
On this or another expedition, Green was introduced to the
idiosyncrasies of the Indian pony or cayuse. One had been taken as a
pack horse, and picked his way demurely along the trail for some time,
with that air of meek innocence which always imposes upon the
tenderfoot. Suddenly, without a moment's warning, and for no apparent
reason, he was "seized with a paroxysm of buck-jumping; the packs flew
off, he rolled down through the ferns and rocks, and then, perfectly
satisfied with his performance, stood patiently while we restored our
goods on his back." The incident will bring back many similar
experiences to those who have camped in the Rocky Mountains. One is
almost tempted to chuckle over Green's bewilderment. It is generally
found that there is reason in the pony's madness. When he runs
unexpectedly into a hornet's nest, the most natural thing in the world
is to get away from it as quickly as possible, and as a rule the
quickest way is to roll down hill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account