Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
Some of the most notable exploits in mountain-climbing in the Canadian
Rockies have been by officers of the Dominion Government, such as J.
J. McArthur and A. O. Wheeler, merely as incidents to their serious
work of topographical surveying. The advent of the mountaineer as
such, and the development of the region as a mountaineer's paradise,
dates from the visit of William Spotswood Green in 1888. Probably his
book, which appeared two years later, did as much as anything else to
bring others to the Canadian mountains. At any rate, in 1890, members
of the English and Swiss Alpine Clubs, and the Appalachian Mountain
Club of Boston, visited the Selkirks, and returned with enthusiastic
accounts of the new field available to mountain climbers.
The visit of Professor Charles E. Fay, of the Appalachian Club, led to
the formation of an Alpine section of that club, and later to the
organisation of the American Alpine Club. The Alpine Club of Canada
came into being in 1906, and since that date, under the notable
leadership of A. O. Wheeler, has rapidly gained strength and
influence, drawing into its fold an ever-increasing number of those
who find keen pleasure and a widening and strengthening of all their
faculties in the splendid sport of mountain-climbing, or in the mere
dwelling from day to day in the companionship of some of the most
noble works of Nature.
The earlier explorations of mountain-climbers, following that of
Green, were confined pretty well to the Selkirks, but as interest
spread the great peaks of the main range were attempted, and one after
another succumbed to the attacks of such notable climbers as Outram,
Fay and Parker; Collie, Stutfield and Woolley; Abbott, Eggers, Weed
and Thompson, and the prince of all mountain-climbers, Whymper. A
brief account will now be given of some of these ascents in the
Rockies, leaving the Selkirks to another chapter.
Dr. Fay made an attempt upon Mount Goodsir in 1901, with Outram and
Scattergood, and the veteran Swiss guide Christian Häsler, but
owing to the exceptionally dangerous condition of the snow near the
summit the party were forced to turn back at the foot of the final
peak. Two years later this superb peak of the Ottertail Range was
again attacked by Dr. Fay, accompanied this time by Professor Parker,
and the guides Christian Kaufmann and Häsler. Dr. Fay has described
both climbs in the _Canadian Alpine Journal_, 1907, from which the
following account is taken.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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