Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
Among many daring climbs in the Canadian Rockies, few have been more
sensational than the successful ascent of Pinnacle Mountain, on the
eastern side of Paradise Valley, by J. W. A. Hickson in 1909. The
following is borrowed from Mr. Hickson's spirited account of the climb
in the _Canadian Alpine Journal_, 1910. Several determined efforts had
been made to capture the peak during the summer of 1907, but the
season was unfavourable for mountaineering, and in every case the
climbers were driven back. The critical point was at the foot of an
almost vertical tower, a few hundred feet below the summit, but only
two possible means of surmounting this final wall presented
themselves. One was by way of a chimney or crack in the wall, and the
other in traversing the face of the mountain along an extremely narrow
ledge of peculiarly rotten rock. The first had been tried
unsuccessfully in 1907. The latter formed the route of the 1909
expedition. Mr. Hickson was accompanied by two Swiss guides, Edouard
Fuez, Jr., and Rudolf Aemmer.
"It was realised," says Mr. Hickson, "that only very slow progress
could be made in this direction, for the disintegrated tawny-coloured
limestone rock was of a most treacherous character. It was covered for
the most part with a glaze of ice, which when disturbed had a tendency
to bring the eroded limestone away with it. It was hard to say whether
the rock sustained the ice or vice versa; perhaps the support, such as
it was, was mutual.
"In our attempt to turn a sharp angle I found myself sitting for about
ten minutes--but for what seemed more like half an hour--astride
a rocky protuberance, which appeared likely to give way at any moment,
while Fuez was endeavouring to find a good footing on the other side.
For a few minutes I almost regretted that I had come; for there was a
sheer drop on either side of probably 2,000 feet. At many places there
were no handholds; and we dared not touch the rocks with our ice-axes
lest we should precipitate downwards the insecure supports we were
standing on. We were very much in the position of flies on a nearly
vertical wall covered with sand which from time to time was crumbling
off. There was no defined ledge to follow.
"Advancing gingerly with cat-like tread, and avoiding any spring or
jerk which might detach the insecure footholds and leave us hanging
precariously, Fuez picked out places here and there which offered the
chance of a support, and we were glad when we found a piece of rock an
inch or two wide and a few inches long on a part of which a nailed
boot-edge could obtain a transitory grip. It is remarkable how very
small a projection, if not slippery, will suffice for a temporary
hold. Fortunately not one of the party once slipped; thus avoiding any
test as to how far he could have been held by the others. Luckily,
also, we had lots of rope, so that we could allow about twenty-five
feet between each person, and thus enabled us at times to manoeuvre
into better positions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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