Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
Sliding down the long slope of the Fraser valley, with the blue waters
of Yellowhead Lake on our left hand, Mount Fitzwilliam above us to the
south, and the loftier peak of Geikie gradually opening up beyond, we
began to realise that there was much yet to be seen both at our feet
and up in the clouds. Another ten or fifteen miles, and we were
travelling along the north shore of Moose Lake, with the Rainbow
Mountains on one side and the Selwyn Range on the other. Moose Lake
was left behind, and we crowded out on to the rear platform of the
train to get our first glimpse of the Monarch of the Rockies, Mount
Robson. Almost without warning it came. We rounded the western end of
the Rainbow Mountains and looked up the valley of the Grand Fork. "My
God!" some one whispered. Rising at the head of the valley and
towering far above all the surrounding peaks we saw a vast cone, so
perfectly proportioned that one's first impression was rather one of
wonderful symmetry and beauty than of actual height. Then we began to
realise the stupendous majesty of the mountain, and recalled the words
of Milton and Cheadle half a century ago, "a giant among giants,
immeasurably supreme." Now, as then, its upper portion was "dimmed by
a necklace of light feathery clouds, beyond which its pointed apex of
ice, glittering in the morning sun, shot up far into the blue heaven."
It is interesting to know that David Douglas was not the only
scientist who made a wild guess at the height of a Rocky Mountain
peak. Douglas absurdly over-estimated the elevation of Mount Brown and
Mount Hooker. Alfred R. C. Selwyn quite as absurdly under-estimated
the height of Mount Robson, and he was at the time Director of the
Geological Survey of Canada. Selwyn made an expedition to the upper
waters of the Fraser in 1871, and in his official report says of
Robson: "It rises with mural precipices to a height of two or three
thousand feet above the river." As a matter of fact the summit of the
peak is about ten thousand feet above the river, and something over
thirteen thousand feet above the sea. There is comfort for the rest of
us in the fact that such an eminent scientist as the late Dr. Selwyn
could make such an extraordinary mistake.
We escaped from the train at a little station named after the great
mountain, and after several miles' tramp reached the base camp of the
Alpine Club of Canada, which was then holding its annual meeting in
the Robson district. There we spent the night, and before the sun went
down were fortunate enough to get an unobstructed view of the peak,
the last wisp of cloud driving off to the east leaving the mountain
outlined from base to summit and glowing with unearthly radiance in
the light of the setting sun. It is only at long intervals that such a
view is to be obtained, the peak retiring for weeks at a time behind
its curtain of clouds, or perhaps revealing its vast base and extreme
summit while the upper slopes are hidden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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