Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
When we set out in the morning for the main camp of the Alpine Club
by the shores of Berg Lake, on the north side of the mountain, Robson
had vanished completely, so completely that a stranger coming here for
the first time would not know that the impenetrable wall of cloud at
the head of the valley hid anything more remarkable than the rugged
hills on either side.
Our way lay for a time over the level ground covered with small
timber; then the trail began to climb up the valley, and the next
eight or ten miles developed into an almost continuous ascent,
sometimes on easy grades, sometimes winding up the sides of a hill as
steep as a high-pitched roof. At last beautiful Lake Kinney came in
sight, with Robson rising in stupendous slopes and precipices and
buttresses from its shores. Our way lay around the north shore of the
lake, over a pebbly flat, around the shoulder of the mountain and into
the Valley of a Thousand Falls--an enchanted valley, and we who had
invaded it were nothing but dream-folk, wandering spell-bound among
scenes more gorgeous than those of Sinbad the Sailor. Here was colour
in riotous profusion, and form, of flower and tree, of sombre cliff
and glittering snow-field and remote summit, music of mountain stream
and waterfall, of waterfalls innumerable, and with it all a sublime
spirit of rest and peace. What did it matter in this Vale of Content
that beyond the outer mountains men were sweating and struggling for
Dead Sea fruit. Here at least one could forget for the moment that he
was one of the same folly-driven race.
Out of the valley at last we climbed, up and up past the Falls of the
Pool and the Emperor Falls, up to the shores of Berg Lake whose
sapphire waters are dotted with white craft launched from the eternal
snows of the King of Mountains. Here at the end of a long day's
journey, a journey overflowing with experience, we sat down to rest
among the tents of the Alpine Climbers. Here, also, we listened to the
story--surely one of fine pluck and endurance--of how George Kinney
and Donald (popularly known as "Curlie") Phillips against all possible
odds fought their way to the supreme peak of Robson. Let us hear it in
their own words (_Alpine Club Journal_, 1910), only premising that
this first ascent of the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies was made
in August, 1909, after two unsuccessful attempts in 1907 and 1908, and
that the final ascent was only accomplished after twenty days of
continuous struggle, during which they were repeatedly driven back
from the peak by impossible conditions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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