“Effendim,” said the zaptieh, “yonder is Birs Nimrûd,” and he pointed to
the south-west, where, in the heart of the desert, rose the huge outline
of a temple pyramid, a zigurrat. Legend has given it a notable place in
the story of our first forefathers: it was believed to be no other than
the impious tower that witnessed the confusion of speech.
I heard at Babylon some hint of the state of unrest, bordering on
revolution, into which the province of ’Iraḳ had fallen. The German
excavators had been sucked into the outer edges of the whirlpool. Their
workpeople, drawn from different tribes (they had relinquished nomad
life, but the tribal system still held good among them), had caught the
infection of hatred and turned from the excavation pits to the settling
of ancient scores--so effectually that many a score had been settled for
ever, and the debtor came back to his place in the trench no more. Most
of the survivors had been clapped into gaol by a justly incensed civil
authority, and what with death and the serving out of sentences,
Professor Koldewey and his colleagues had suffered from a scarcity of
labour. This was nothing, as I was to learn at Baghdâd, to the confusion
that reigned in other parts of ’Iraḳ, and it was fortunate that I had no
intention of going south from Babylon; at that time it would have been
impossible.
On the way to Baghdâd I was resolved to visit Ctesiphon, but we were
obliged to follow, during the first day’s journey, the Baghdâd road,
re-traversing for some hours the line of our march from Museiyib. Ever
since we had left Kebeisah the temperature had been exceedingly high,
and from Babylon to Baghdâd we travelled through a heat wave very
unusual at the beginning of April. The early morning was cool and
pleasant, but by about ten o’clock the scorching sun became almost
unbearable, even for people so well inured to heat as my servants and I.
As long as we were moving, it was tempered by the breath of our
progress, but if we stood still it burnt through our clothes like a
flame. There was not a leaf or any green thing upon the plain, and the
only diversion in a monotonous ride was caused by a peasant who caught
us up with lamentations and laid hold of my stirrup.
“Effendim!” he cried, “you have soldiers with you; bid them do justice
on the man who stole my cow.”
“Where is the man?” said I in bewilderment.
“He is here,” he answered, weeping more loudly than before, “but a
quarter of an hour back upon the road. An Arab he is; and while I was
driving my cow to Museiyib, he came out of the waste and took her from
me, threatening me with his rifle.”
“The effendi has nought to do with your cow,” said one of the zaptiehs
impatiently--and indeed the sun withered us as we stood. “Go tell the
Ḳâḍî at Museiyib.”
“How shall I get justice from the Ḳâḍî?” wailed the peasant. “I have no
money.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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