bed of the old Tigris to the tomb of the Imâm Muḥammad ’Alî lying among
mounds that mark the site of the village of Wâneh (Fig. 117). The tomb
is built of fine burnt bricks measuring 20 × 20 × 6 c., pale in colour,
nearing to yellow, like the bricks I had previously seen scattered over
the mounds. It is a square-domed building, but the dome rests on an
interior octagon and is set at each of the eight angles on a shallow
pointed squinch arch (Fig. 118). Pointed arched niches occupy seven of
the sides; in the eighth is the door. There is a system of niching on
the façade which has been considerably destroyed by the addition of a
rude porch of sun-dried brick. The mazâr is a typical example of the
small Mohammadan memorial shrine, and from the excellence of its
workmanship and the character of the brick I should place it within the
Abbâsid age.[108] From Wâneh we rode in an hour to Sumeikhah, where we
found our tents pitched in a charming palm garden. Sumeikhah is a modern
village lying on the Dujeil at a point where a little water still flows
down the canal from the Tigris, enough to satisfy the inhabitants and
keep their palm gardens in a flourishing condition. Like all Senîyeh
villages it has a prosperous appearance. The peasants are well to do,
having been exempted under the old régime from the greater part of the
ordinary taxes and from military service. With the memory of the
previous night of storm freshly in our minds we felt that we had reached
an agreeable haven. The temperature had fallen by an average of ten
degrees after the rain; the palm garden was a delicious camping-ground,
which we shared in all amity with a family of storks who had built their
nest on the angle of the enclosing wall. And we knew as little as they
of the counter-revolution which had overwhelmed Constantinople that very
day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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