Next morning I left my caravan to follow the straight road and turned
again to the east. In an hour we reached Tell Hir, where there had been
a considerable town on the old Tigris; thirty-five minutes further there
was a similar mound, Tell Ghazab, and in thirty-five minutes more we
came to Tell Manjûr. From Tell Manjûr to Tell edh Dhahab, three-quarters
of an hour to the north, a large area, stretching down to the Tigris, is
completely covered with mounds and strewn with pottery. The pottery is
not coloured or glazed, but ornamented with roughly scratched patterns
and narrow raised bands, a Mohammadan ware with which I was to become
very familiar at Sâmarrâ. The whole site must therefore have been
inhabited in the Mohammadan period, but in all probability it was
occupied by a city of earlier fame. On the east bank of the Tigris,
above the point where it is joined by the river ’Aḍêm, and therefore
exactly opposite the mounds which I saw on the west bank, Ross
discovered a great stretch of ruins and believed them to be the ruins of
Opis.[109] The Tigris, when it changed its course, must have cut through
the area of Opis, so that one half of its mounds now lie to the east of
the river and one half to the west. Opis is mentioned by Xenophon[110]
and by Herodotus.[111] It was the most important city of Babylonia after
Babylon. Alexander’s ships touched there on their voyage up the Tigris,
and Strabo observes that the river was navigable up to that point.[112]
But in Strabo’s time it was no more than a village, and Pliny does not
mention it, unless his Apamea is a later name for Opis.[113] The mounds
and pottery continued uninterruptedly almost up to the Mazâr of Sayyid
Muḥammad, which we reached in an hour from Tell edh Dhahab. The mazâr is
a mosque with a fine great dome decorated with coloured tiles; and near
the mosque is a large khân. I do not know whether there was an older
shrine here; the present mosque is dated by an inscription: A.H. 1310,
_i.e._ A.D. 1893. An hour from the mazâr we came to Balad, a large
village on the Dujeil. It existed in the thirteenth century for it is
mentioned by Yâḳût, but it can scarcely have been more flourishing then
than it is now, with its walled gardens filled with fruit-trees, its
well-laid roads and well-bridged irrigation canals. There was no need to
ask who was landlord here, so clearly did the place bear the stamp of
the Senîyeh estates, nor is it necessary to point out that if the
irrigation system were restored to its old perfection, the country from
Baghdâd to Balad might again be as thickly populated as it was in the
Abbâsid age.[114]
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