A stormy wind, bringing with it splashes of rain, swept us next morning
over the wet uplands. About an hour from Bâb we were joined by a
Circassian wrapped in a thick black felt cloak, which, with the white
woollen hood over an astrachan cap, skirted coat with cartridges ranged
across the breast, and high riding-boots, is the invariable costume of
these emigrants from the north. His name was Maḥmûd Aghâ. His father had
left the Caucasus after the Russians took the country and had gone with
all his people to Roumelia, where they settled down and built houses.
And then the Russians seized that land also, and again they left all and
came to Manbij, and the Sultan gave them fields on his own estates. “But
if the Russians were to come here too,” he concluded, with the anxious
air of one who faces an ever-present danger, “God knows where we should
go.”
“Their frontier is far,” said I reassuringly.
“Please God,” said he.
I asked him about the recent elections and found that he took a lively
interest in the politics of the day. He knew the names of the deputies
who had been returned for the vilayet of Aleppo, and said that a
thousand people had given their votes in the Manbij district, though
there should have been many more if all had been on the register. But
they would not trouble to have their names placed upon it.
“Wallah, no,” observed Ḥâjj ’Alî. “Do you think that the fellaḥîn of all
these villages wish to vote? If they knew that their name was written
down by the government, they would take to their heels and flee into the
desert, leaving all that they have. So great would be their fear.”
This was a new view of the duties and privileges of citizenship, and
once more I had to shift my ground and look at representative
institutions through the eyes of the Syrian peasant.
“Then none of the Arab vote?” I asked, when I had accomplished this
revolution of the mind. The Arab are the Bedouin.
“God forbid!” replied Ḥâjj ’Alî. “Where is Aleppo and where their
dwelling-place!”
“We are all equal now before the law,” said Maḥmûd Aghâ inconsequently
(but he was thinking of townsfolk, not of the Arab), “and all will be
given an equal justice. We shall not wait for months at the door of the
serâyah before we are given a hearing--and then only with bribes.”
“I have heard that all are equal,” said I, “and that Christian and
Moslem will serve together in the army. What think you?”
“Without doubt the Christians may serve,” he answered, “but they cannot
command.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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